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- TOUGHSOLES.IEThe Boyne Valley Camino Ireland's Pilgrim PathsOverview: Distance: 25km Looped WalkTime: 6 - 10 Hours Start / End Point: Information board beside St Peter's Church, Drogheda (here on google maps) Parking:When starting in Drogheda, I parked in this paid-for car park in the centre of town.The middle crossing point of the trail is Townley Hall Woods, which has parking for over 20 cars, and is a good starting point if youre looking to split the trail in half.Trail difficulty: Easy This route sticks to well defined paths through woodlands and small roads. Some of the woodland sections include steps, but there are no stiles along the whole route. Read about trail grading in Ireland here.Trail quality: 3.5/5If you are looking for a very accessible trail, this is perfect. It is very well managed, with lots of history along the way. The route does contain road walking, but the majority of the road walking is along quiet roads, or roads with footpaths. Views: 4/5This trail shows off Drogheda and its surroundings incredibly well, bringing you past and through so many wonderful pieces of history.Buggy/Wheelchair friendly: PartiallySome sections of this trail are quite accessible. The sections through Townley Hall Woods are where youll find stairs. Making a loop around the easterly section of the trail, taking in the River Boyne Greenway, would be a great accessible route. Dogs allowed: Yes (on a lead)Useful links: Official Boyne Valley Camino WebisteOder an official Camino Society Ireland passportDownload maps, see stamp locations, and read the online guideOur video of the trail The Boyne Valley Camino is a 25km looped pilgrim path, taking walkers on a journey through history. One of Irelands newest waymarked walking trails, Ive been excited to get to this corner of the east coast for a while now.Starting in Drogheda, the trail is shaped like a figure-eight. The route starts by heading west along the northern side of the River Boyne to Townley Hall Woods, the centre of the eight shape. This is where the trail crosses itself - continuing on you will now be on the south-west side of Townley Hall woods. Once at Mellifont Abbey, you return through the village of Tullyallen and the northern side of the woods. Making it back to the trail junction, the route takes you along the the south side of the River Boyne on the gorgeous greenway all the way into the centre of Drogheda. In the official map below, youll see that the blue route is the way out from Drogheda to Mellifont Abbey, and the pink route is the walk back from the abbey to Drogheda town. This figure-eight format means that you can split the trail into two 13km loops, which is great for anyone building up to walking longer days. When I messaged the people whove put this trail together to tell them I was going to walk the route, they were incredibly helpful and accommodating, sending out one of their own to greet me at the start line and make sure I had all my maps and a passport to collect stamps in along the way.In talking to Ain from the Boyne Valley Camino Society, I learnt that there is a long history of people in the north-east of Ireland assembling in Drogheda to take boats from here to A Corua in Galicia in Spain, walking the remaining 75km to Santiago de Compostela to complete their pilgrimage.Bernadette Cunninghams 2018 book Medieval Irish Pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela' documents voyages from Drogheda to Santiago in the Middle Ages, highlighting a far older link between Ireland and the Camino than I expected. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Walking through Drogheda, Ain and I turned off the main street, followed a small lane for a moment, and then turned into Old Abbey Lane, meeting the beautiful ruins of a Medieval Augustinian friary (known simply as The Old Abbey). The old church walls are incorporated into the town around it, with the arches and church tower rising up like old watchmen from the past.From here we descend to the waterfront, and Ain stays with me until we reach the end of the riverside park. Crossing back up to the main road, the route follows footpaths and then turns off down a smaller country lane. Crossing under the M1, I follow a mixture of back roads, and the discarded remnants of old roads from before the motorway, bringing me to Townley Hall Woods. Its as the trail uses these otherwise forgotten paths, passing old holy wells and tree-stumps marked with painted yellow arrows, that Im truly reminded of my own time walking the Camino Del Norte through Spain in 2015.This woods is the big junction of the trail. From here you can continue on as normal, or you can join the return route to Drogheda, doing a roughly 13km loop in total. The way-marking all along the trail is a combination of the yellow arrows and the yellow classic camino shell on the blue background. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize On leaving the woods, there are about 4km along small roads to Mellifont Abbey. There is always a cut verge or space to stand in from any oncoming traffic. The fact that some of this section is on very straight roads makes the walking feel longer than it is. On reaching Mellifont Abbey theres a new stamp to collect, and a beautiful place to explore! Mellifont Abbey was the first Cistercian monastery in Ireland. St Malachy of Armagh created it in 1142 with the help of a small number of monks sent by St Bernard from Clairvaux. The monks did not take well to Ireland and soon returned to France, but the abbey was completed anyway and duly consecrated with great pomp. It has several extraordinary architectural features, the foremost of which is the two-storey octagonal lavabo.The monks at Mellifont hosted a critical synod in 1152. The abbey was central to the history of later centuries, too, even though it was in private hands by then. The Treaty of Mellifont, which ended the Nine Years War, was signed here in 1603, and William of Orange used the abbey as his headquarters during the momentous Battle of the Boyne. Heritage Ireland: Mellifont Abbey I decided to take my time here, wandered around the remains of the abbey, claimed one of the many picnic benches to munch a late lunch, and generally relaxed. There was a peacefulness around the Abbey, with everyone talking in hushed tones, bar the occasional giggle of delight from a child that found a new pillar to hide behind. Note: the grounds of Mellifont Abbey are open all year round, but the visitor centre (where the stamp is located) is only open May - September, 10:00 17:00. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize However, I did still have a return trip to make, so moving on from the Abbey I was back onto small country lanes for a further 3km into the village of Tullyallen. The route brings you on a circuitous loop through the village as far as The Morning Star pub - which also has a small coffee dock. While ordering my coffee I chatted with the girl behind the counter, talking about the trail and how busy its been. She remembers some of the stories that Ain had shared with me that morning, not quite nailing the details but getting enough right. She also has a stamp for my passport, and I feel like a school child passing over my book for her to mark.Carl and I have walked thousands of kilometres of National Waymarked Trails in Ireland, and countless of times weve met locals who have had no idea that the trail we were walking even existed. Packing away my passport and downing my coffee (the day was getting away from me), I was heartened by how everyone I had met knew of this new walking route, had absorbed some of its context, and were happily sharing their localities with whoever was passing though. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Leaving Tullyallen your into King Williams Glen and Belnumber woods. I think this stretch might be my favourite part of the trail. The sun dappling through the canopy above and the ground soft underfoot, the trail rises and falls with the old trees and riverbeds. I really enjoyed the couple of kilometres back to the Townley Hall Woods info board. Crossing the N51, I very quickly came to the Obelisk metal bridge and crossed back over the River Boyne. The trail then hits the canal, and I feel like around every corner there is a new sight to see. Following the road across a humpback bridge, one of the entrances to Oldbridge House (1750) is on the right. You can detour off to see the estate from here - inside youll find the Battle of the Boyne Interpretive Centre, as well as some incredible gardens. Walking along the outer walls of the house, the trail transitions from canal banks to riverside, and after about 1.6km passes under the Mary McAleese Bridge. At this point the trail is fully segregated from the road on the Boyne River Greenway, a boardwalk that overhangs the riverbanks. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize As I walked along the greenway, soaking up the sunshine while the town of Drogheda solidified ahead of me, I began to reflect on the trail as a whole. I had had a beautiful day out - and the gorgeous sunshine had certainly helped. Yes, there was road walking, which I knew would put some people off of this trail. But this wasnt a trail about exploring the wilderness - this was a trail built around the cultural and historical heritage of the area. And it truly reminded me of my experience of walking the camino route I had walked all those years ago. A particularly unique note for this trail is that I think there isnt a single stile on the whole route - which is a novelty when it comes to Irish trails. All of the route followed wide paths, with easy to navigate gates or junctions. This isnt a trail I can label as multi-access (learn what that means here) but it is certainly one of Irelands more accessible national trails. Arriving back to the info board at St. Peters Church, I tap the post and go off in search of chips, the final note in a perfect day. Further exploringOther trails in the area: The Tain WayOther Historical sites to visit: Newgrange - World Heritage SiteOld Mellifont AbbeyBattle of the Boyne at Oldbridge HouseCoffee/food options: I stopped at The Morning Star Coffee Dock in Tullyallen0 Comments 0 Shares 119 ViewsPlease log in to like, share and comment!
- TOUGHSOLES.IESt. Kevin's Way Ireland's Pilgrim PathsSt. Kevins Way is an ancient path, said to follow in the footsteps of the Irish saint as he travelled through Wicklow to find a remote corner of nature for his hermitage. Reputedly born in 498AD, there is little that can be said for definite on his life, but he has inspired many tales in this area, and born a beautiful walking trail. Overview: Distance: 26kmFormat: Linear TrailTime: 6 - 10 HoursStart / End / Parking:Start point: Hollywood Some on-street parking is available within the village of HollywoodEnd point: GlendaloughPlenty of parking throughout Glendalough in the provided car-parks. Around 5 for the day. Trail difficulty: EasyCovering everything from roads and boreens to forest trails, raised boardwalk, and open foothills, this route takes you on all the best kinds of surfaces Irish hiking has to offer! This is a well way-marked trail, using a twist on Irelands traditional yellow walking man way-marker by having a yellow saintly figure as the path finder. Read about trail grading in Ireland here.Trail quality: 4.5/5The only draw-back to this trail is the short road section outside of Hollywood along the R756. This is a busy road and walkers should take care. Every other section is well developed and enjoyable!Views: 5/5Really wide variety of terrain and landscapesBuggy/Wheelchair friendly: NoDogs allowed: No In this article and accompanying video, I walk the traditional route from Hollywood - Glendalough. There is an alternative starting point in Valleymount. Related Links: Visit Wicklow - St. Kevins WayPilgrim Paths - St. Kevins Way Sport Ireland - St. Kevins Way (distance listed includes walking both start variations)HiiKER - St. Kevins Way (distance listed is based off walking every possible trail section out and back) Its a beautiful sun-filled evening as I set up my camera beside the old phone-box-come-heritage-info-centre, the early October air starting to feel crisp. Walking around the village of Hollywood, the picturesque pubs and well-kept lanes keep me at the start line for longer than I planned, admiring all the little details that you can only really appreciate at a walking pace. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Starting from the trail info board, you walk directly across the road and through the red gate into the field that narrows to a short valley. Looking up the steep wall on the left, a grey statue gazes down, his features obscured from the distance, but a religious stance is clear. This is St. Kevin, resting above the caves of Hollywood. Its said that these caves were Kevins first step towards becoming a hermit, but they werent remote enough for his liking. One of the famous stories linked to his time in these caves tells of unrequited love: a local woman pursued Kevin, yet no matter how hard he tried to tell her no, she would not relent. One evening, in a fit of frustration, he threw his chair from the caves, and it landed in the valley below. Right by the path, youll find his castaway chair, now turned to stone, but nicely curved to sit back in. Not content with the caves of Hollywood, St. Kevin carried on along Kings river towards the Wicklow Gap, looking for true wilderness. And so on I walked, leaving the field behind me and coming out onto the small boreens of the area. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The trail circumnavigates a small hill called Slievecorragh before joining the R756, one of the main roads out of Hollywood. This main road is quite busy, and is the one section of the route where walkers should be weary of traffic. As I turn back onto smaller lanes once more, the light begins to take on the blue tinge of dust. Its not long after seven, yet the nights are starting to creep in, and so I pick up the pace, knowing I have about 4km along this small boreen before I reach my end destination for the evening. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize I almost make it without taking the head torch out - almost, but not quite. Turning off the lane I climb a short, steep little hill to my home for the night. An Teachan Beag, the little cottage. Stepping up onto the front step as dark truly sets in, drop my bag, and set to lighting the fire while the kettle boils. Curling up with a cup of tea in the armchair, I bask in the warmth and enjoy the cold burning of my face - the kind of feeling you only get after spending hours outdoors.I get a text from Belle, the owner, asking how the evening went, and I promise her that Im loving the trail so far - its thanks to Belle that Im here walking the trail in this moment. With her new little cottage for rent along the trail, Belle asked if I wanted to trade some images of the trail and local area for a nights stay. I jumped at the chance, as this was a trail Id been promising myself I would do this year. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The next morning was all pink skies and slow coffee. Setting off from An Teachan Beag, the grass in the middle of the lane quickly grows from a small strip to the main terrain underfoot. Passing through a farm gate, I say goodbye to tarmac for the next few hours, and become completely immersed in the surrounding forests. I feel so incredibly lucky to be having such a fair-weather day, the slightly lower autumn sun casting everything around me in a warm glow.I cross more streams and rivers as the day progresses, and every time the wooden footbridges spark a particular happiness in me - something in the way they sit naturally in the landscape, with a timelessness that hints at the ages gone past. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The next time I reach a road, its where the Valleymount off-shoot joins the main trail at Ballinagee Bridge. Examining the info board, it looks like Im half way through the overall trail, and I know the climb of the day is not far ahead of me. The route passes through the Wicklow Gap, which is the highest point of the trail (480m), and is one of only two east-west routes across the Wicklow Mountains (the other being the Sally Gap). One of the old stories of the gap says that back in penal times, only a mad man would choose to cross at the Wicklow Gap as it was full of highway men that would rob you blind. One of the most famous was Conway from Hollywood, where I had started the day before.The legends go, Conway would shoe his horse backwards to confuse his pursuers, and evaded capture for years longer than anyone else, amassing a hoard bigger than any other. However, when he was finally caught and asked for his last words beside the executioner, Conway shouted to the crowd, Men of Hollywood! I have hidden my treasure in Scalp!. Since that day, people have scoured the area for sign of his loot, and while some priceless trinkets or silver spoons have been found, never the full reward. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The trail twists and turns in the valley carved by Kings River, following some trails and forestry roads on the north side, before shortly crossing the R756 south again to find St. Kevins Pool.Well known as a swim-spot, the Annalecka Brook is caught by large boulders as it descends to join Kings River in the valley below, creating a beautiful babbling brook with many deep pools. I had planned on braving the October chill for a dip in the pools - until on arrival I realised Id left all my swim-stuff in the car, waiting for me in Glendalough. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Carrying on from the pools, the trail is consumed by a pine forest, with a raised bog bridge / board walk the only line through. The density of the trees mute the sound, and it feels like Im passing through somewhere that hasnt seen another person in years. Pockets of heather blaze in the sea of green, and every so often a bird chirps from somewhere just around the corner. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Its on leaving this forest that I finally climb up to the top of the Wicklow Gap, the wind blowing away any cobwebs I may have picked up among the trees. From here, the route descends down into the valley of Glendasan, and I begin what feels like the home straight of the trail.Glendasan is most famous for the mining that happened here at the turn of the 19th Century. Like its sister valley Glendalough, deposits of lead, silver and zinc were the primary minerals extracted. Ruins of the mining are strewn throughout the valley, with the largest village accessible from the road. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Large stone slabs are used for much of the trail as it makes its way through the valley, and I wonder as to how many are left from when it was mined. It makes for easy going, and the kilometres disappear as I make it down to the valley floor and Glendasan River. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Once Kevin made it to Glendalough he was led by an angel to the lake-side caves, now named Kevins Bed, where he spent seven years living as a hermit. His devotion and reputation as a religious teacher spread, attracting many to him and his way of life.Eventually, this notoriety grew into a monastic city, famous for its dedication to education and worship. Since the 7th century, people have travelled there in pilgrimage, most following the same route that I walked for this trail.Today, most of the building remains date from the 11th and 12th centuries, which is considered the peak in the pilgrimage era for Glendalough. Theres beautiful architecture to see, including a round tower, high crosses, and numerous churches.Ive spent so much time in Wicklow over the years, that I was surprised when I rounded a corner and could see the round tower of Glendalough poking out over the house in front of me. The trail had managed to almost sneak into one of the busiest tourist areas in Ireland, without anyone noticing. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Walking through the Monastic City hundreds of years after its inception, its clear that there is something special about the place, whatever your beliefs are. Nature inspires awe and causes reflection, reminding us of the fleetingness of life, and the importance of how we use it. I felt like I couldnt end this piece on the trail without mentioning the final famous story of St. Kevin, as it came up again and again in my research on the trail: St. Kevin built his Church in Glendalough in the Co. Wicklow. He spent most of his time praying in his cell. One day as he knelt in prayer with his hands out-stretched a blackbird alighted on his open hand and finding it so warm and comfortable the bird brought moss and built itself a nest. St. Kevin saw what was happening. He did not move his hand but allowed the bird to lay its eggs and hatch them. Not until the Blackbird's young had flown from the nest did the saint move his hand.- Old Stories, from the National Folklore Collection, Duchas.ie A big thank you to Belle for having me stay, and for telling me all the wonderful stories of the area - learn more about An Teachan Beag here. Further exploringThis trail passes through the Wicklow Mountains National Park - learn more about the park and the history of Glendalough here.Other trails in the area: Glendalough White Loop (The Spinc)The Wicklow WayThe Dublin Mountains LoopThe Dublin Mountains WayMountain hikes: Kippure: Dublin County High PointCoffee/food options: The Hollywood Cafe, to get you going at the start of the trail.I got my celebratory finish line chips at St. Kevins Kitchen food truck, parked right beside the trails info board / end point in Glendalough.Glendalough Green Cafe, Laragh: a Wicklow institution, Ive been going here since before I could walk! this is the perfect cafe for a cosy mocha on a winters day, or a coffee and sweet treat to take out into the sunshine of a summers day.In the upper car park of Glendalough there are food trucks, and there are few things more satisfying than grabbing a bag of chips after a hike!0 Comments 0 Shares 391 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IEEllie Berry sets new Irish Mountain RecordOn the 9th of June, I stood on a small rise at the edge of the forest, and looked up at the mountains looming over me. Carl lifted the camera, and I tried to smile in a way that wasnt too nervous looking. This was it, the start of the Vandeleur-Lynams Project. Applying definitions to nature and our landscapes is a fool-hardy endeavour - but it hasnt stopped our us, or our forebears, from trying. And standing in the strong afternoon sun, squinting out at the world around me, I knew I was joining in. The Vandeleur-Lynams list defines a mountain as a point of 600m or more, with a prominence of 15m. Across the island of Ireland, there are 275 summits on this list. And I was going to do them all. Carl, satisfied with his photo of my grand beginning, waved me off as I started climbing up the east side of Derryclare - my first of the Twelve Bens of Galway. Reaching the summit, I was dripping in sweat from the humidity hanging in the air around me. The stones of the cairn were warm to touch, having baked under the sun for hours. 50 days, 5 hours, and 45 minutes later, I crouched beside the small cairn on the summit of Knockbrack in the Mangerton Mountains south of Killarney - once again soaked through from the sideways rain that had been pelting me for hours. A lot happened in those 51 days. Stifling heat, lightening storms, and the wettest July on record. Rolled ankles, tired knees, and the litany of cuts and scratches that come with spending your life completely outside. I went through it all. For this project, I traversed 1,000km across Irelands mountains, and climbed 68,333m of elevation (which roughly equates to climbing Mount Everest every week of the project). Carl and I shared short daily videos on YouTube and Instagram, which summarise many of the highs and lows. More writing and documentation to come, but for now I feel privileged to say that I spent my summer pushing myself and seeing a side of Ireland that few see. I undertook this project purely for my love of the mountains, and seeing how hard I could push myself in the hills. There arent many chances in life when we can take on crazy ideas, so when the opportunity came I went for it. And thank you Carl, who was my one stop shop support crew throughout. Carl did all of the logistics throughout this trip - the driving, route planning, and video editing being the biggest three each day. Notes for the Editor / Further Details:Ellie Berry of Tough Soles has set a new record for climbing every mountain in Ireland. This list of mountains, the Vandeleur-Lynams, is an island-wide challenge, taking in all the most prominent mountain ranges and totalling to 275 summits. Ellies time from the 1st summit to the 275th summit, was 50 days, 5 hours, and 45 minutes. The previous record was 56 days. This challenge was documented in daily videos uploaded to Instagram and YouTube. Tough Soles is a joint project between Ellie Berry and Carl Lange. They document outdoor challenges and share resources on exploring the outdoors with a Leave No Trace ethos. They were the first people to walk every national waymarked trail in Ireland between 2017 - 2019 (42 trails totalling to 4,000km). The Vandeleur-Lynams list documents the mountains on the island of Ireland of 600m or more, with a prominence of 15m or more. This list is maintained by MountainViews, a website that started in 2002 as a place to provide useful information about all of Irelands hills and mountains. It is now one of the leading places to learn about summiteering and hiking routes in Ireland. The previous record for climbing all of the Vandeleur-Lynams was established by James Forrest in 2018, climbing the then list of 273 mountains in 56 days. This style of record is referred to as an FKT or Fastest Known Time. It is recognised by MountainViews.ie, who acknowledge many different mountain- and summiteering achievements at their yearly Gathering. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize0 Comments 0 Shares 96 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IEMoylussa: Clare's County High PointCounty High Point: Moylussa (13/32)County: ClareHeight of high point: 531m Our total elevation for the hike: 565 mDifficulty: EasyLearn more about trail and hillwalking grades here.Our route distance: 11kmViews: Spectacular Moylussa (531m) is the highest point in Co. Clare. Sitting on the western banks of Lough Derg, this peak is part of the East Clare hills. We travelled down from our corner of the north-west to take on this hike in mid-January, our first proper hike of 2023. As we drove south along that western shoreline of the lake, I felt so happy to have chosen this particular hike for that day; passing through Whitegate and weaving along the small back lanes of that area, had us criss-crossing the East Clare Way, a trail I didnt realise I had such fond memories of. For Moylussa itself we headed to the village of Twomilegate, and from there to Ballycuggaran Forest Car Park. Twomilegate sits right on the banks of Lough Derg and has plenty of parking on the lakeshore, for those looking to start from the lowest point possible. We decided to head up to Ballycuggaran forest car park, the car just about making it up the couple of steep gravel switch-backs to the parking area. A classic large Coillte car park, theres room ample room (30+ cars). Wrapped up in many layers, we set out from the car park along the East Clare Way. This section is a narrow trail that cuts a straight line up the hill, with breaks in the hedging offering spectacular views out at the lake. There are some opportunities along here to use the wider Coillte logging roads and follow their switch-backs for a less intense ascent. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize For our outbound journey we stuck to the straight up approach, the first one or two kilometres on the narrow trail, then onto some of the wider tracks. After what had been a pretty mild winter for the end of 2022, the beginning of 2023 was when the cold truly set in, and our hike had the rare and exciting occurrence of snow! The crunchy white layer added an extra element of child-like joy, and our climb passed pretty quickly. Looking up other peoples accounts of this route before we headed out, one of the key points was to not miss the point where a small, hand-made sign points you off the forest tracks and off to the summit. However, we seem to have lucked into tackling this list at the perfect moment - a new Coillte sign clearly marked the turn up, and the trail from there to the top was well maintained. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Heading up from this turn, its about 1500m to the summit. The first 1km is along a widened trail, with the final summit crossing following a twisting boardwalk (also known as a bog bridge). We crossed this beautifully frozen wonderland as the sun slowly sank towards the horizon, soaking the world in golden light. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The summit itself is marked with a plaque attached to a large rock. As we took in the views and talked about how beautiful the place was, two more walkers made it to the summit, shared a quick chat with us, and then they headed down. We delayed as long as we felt like the light would hold out for our descent, and then turned back along the boardwalk. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize On our descent we took one of the forestry road switch-backs, as opposed to the narrower trail that wed climbed up along, as we knew some of those sections would be very icy as the temperatures dropped with the setting sun. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Making it back to the car as darkness swallowed the trees around us, we did some quick filming, and then started the two and a half hour drive home.Favourite near-by places: The Garden Cafe at the East Clare Community Co-Op: Every time we pass through here, we stop at the Garden Cafe in Scarriff. But its not just a fantastic cafe (whos veg is supplemented by the Community Garden at the back of the cafe), as you walk in off the street, you can meander through the co-ops second hand shop filled with books, clothes, and antique furniture pieces. The place feels like a welcoming space, and really seems like it has become the community hub it strives to be. The Garden Cafe on Google Maps.Lakeside Holiday Park CampsiteEver wanted a campsite right on the water, with quiet piers and lush trees? This is what we found when we walked down to this campsite while walking the East Clare Way. When we stayed in the summer of 2019, we arrived on a weekday and had most of the campsite to ourselves. It was ACSI accredited, which is something we look for when searching for campsites as it typically means a campsite of a high quality, but also one that has a feeling of connection to the place around it. The Lakeside Holiday Park on Google Maps. Indoor accommodation Clare Ecolodge, FeakleWe stayed at Clare Ecolodge when walking the East Clare Way, and had an amazing evening swapping adventure stories with the owners. They are striving to produce all their own power and become carbon neutral, as well as growing all their own veg and herbs that they use in their kitchens. The Clare Ecolodge on Google Maps. Watch our video of the hike here. Learn more about Moylussa on Mountain Views. If you want a full overview of the County High Points project, click here. If you want to learn more about trail and hillwalking grading, click here.0 Comments 0 Shares 96 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IEKippure: Dublin's County High PointCounty High Point: Kippure (14/32)County: DublinHeight of high point: 757m Our total elevation for the hike: 378mDifficulty: Easy / ModerateIf you follow the mast road up and down, this is an easy route. If you take the same route as we did (crossing between the two Lough Brays), it crosses to moderate. There is quite a worn route through between the two lakes, but being boggy it can be hard to cross if its been wet. There is no trail for the second half of the bog section. Learn more about trail and hillwalking grades here.Our route distance: 8.6kmViews: Splendid sunsets I paced past the pile I was amassing in the middle of our upstairs floor. Id always liked the aesthetic of outdoor gear laid out in neat piles for a photo before someones long trip or weekend adventure - but Id never realised how well it could be utilised for the actual packing part. Finding our buffs was the current mission as I entered our bedroom. Standing by the bed, I look around and try to decide where I might have thought they belonged the last time I did laundry. I didnt have much time left to find our bits and pieces, as it was already approaching lunch time and we needed to be on the road sooner rather than later. That weekend, we were doing our Mountain Skills 2 course with Fia Mountaineering in the Wicklow Mountains, and seeing as we were driving to the east coast anyway, Id persuaded Carl that the perfect start to our weekend of training would be to do a quick hike the night before. Kippure sits right on the edge of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains, pushing the border of Dublin to its most southerly reaches. At 757m tall, its technically at the higher end of the County High Points List, but like many hiking routes in the Dublin and Wicklow mountains, the starting point for trails is much higher than sea level, so the overall climbing was less than 400m. We decided to follow a pretty common looped route; parking on the Old Military Road at the Lough Bray Parking point, and climbing up between Lough Bray Upper and Lough Bray Lower. As we got out of the car and pulled on some extra layers to counter the cold February winds, a few other people pulled over to hop out and take in the view. No one else was actually heading up the hills though. Crossing the road, theres a short descent to the boggy valley floor, before following the well worn path through the bog. You walk right along the side of Lough Bray Upper, before reaching the one steep climb of the route. I found that it looked steeper and more technical on the approach than it was once we started up, but it still requires care. Once up this small scramble, we were onto the upper plateau above both of the lakes. View fullsize View fullsize This is where the worn path ends, and we set off into the bog heading west / south-west towards the summit of Kippure. In clear weather, the large mast on top is a pretty clear beacon. The mast on the summit is is the oldest television transmission site in Ireland, and as we approach wisps of cloud make it look other worldly. As we reached the top we split up, Carl declaring a race to see which of us would find the trig point first. As we each went our different ways around the mast site the sun began to set, the sky of icy blue slowly painted with warming oranges. Hunkering down my the trig point we take in the view, and then decide that the wind is cold and its time to call it a night. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Because there is a mast, there is also a mast access road that can bring you the whole way to the top without leaving tarmac (although this doesnt mean you can drive up, the access road is gated at the base). If you approach the way we did, note that crossing over onto the road would be hard as there is a deep ditch running between the road and this eastern side of the bog. For us, descending the mast road was a great route down - we had the fun of hiking up through the bog, and then could pretty quickly walk down to the road (the mast road is about 3.5km long). In the darkening twilight, deer followed us down the side of the hill, leaping over the soft ground like it was as easy to traverse as the tarmac we were on. At the bottom we rejoined the R115 / Military Road for around 1km before making it back to where we had parked. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize If you want a full overview of the County High Points project, click here. For a breakdown of trail and hillwalking grades, click here.0 Comments 0 Shares 95 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IEThe rain jacket I climbed over 275 mountains in | The Patagonia Storm 10Id just climbed into the car after coming down off of Tonelagee in Wicklow, the skin on my legs absolutely burning from the rain that battered me like shards of icy glass on my descent down the mountain. I peel my rain jacket off, followed by my jumper, and I stuff them onto the dash as I start blasting the heating. I never sit with the car idling, but today I make an exception for myself as I rub the feeling back into my thighs. Less than a minute later Im rotating my jacket to get the other sleeve into the heat, smiling the grim grin of disbelief as I'm both amazed at how quickly the jacket is drying out - and therefore, I know therell be one more mountain on the cards today after all. Loading up google maps, I click on my next start point and pull out of the empty car park. This summer I climbed every mountain on the island of Ireland - 275 peaks in a new record of 50 days, 5hrs, and 45minutes. It was my first time really dipping my toe into the FKT (fastest known time) world. I have a lot to share about the experience, but lets start with simple pieces, and work up from there. Today, Im talking about the rain jacket that I wore practically every day of the project: the Patagonia Storm 10. And the reason I wore it almost every day is because while I climbed through all these mountain ranges, Ireland experienced the wettest July on record. Some areas on the west coast experiences almost 4 times more rain than usual, as I was out there in all of it. The Jacket - Technical Details:Model: Patagonia Storm 10 (bought end of 2022)Weight: 210 gramsHydrostatic head: 20,000 (I explain hydrostatic head in this video)Seams are internally taped, which is something that I personally expect to be in all good waterproof jackets these days. 3 Pockets: one chest, two front/hand pockets. Whole jacket can pack into the chest pocket!The hood: Synchs at the back, as well as a peaked/reinforced front. So why did I pick this jacket? I didnt buy this jacket especially for this project, but I bought it for this kind of adventure. One of its key selling points for me was how light it is, and how small it packs down. The whole jacket packs down into the chest pocket, making it super easy to fit into a running vest, or other tight space. Its this pack-ability that I really wanted. For something to be that small, light and packable, it did mean that it was missing a few features I usually like, such as pit zips and a way of synching the hood tighter around my face and not just at the back of the hood. But they were worth-while trades. As I mentioned at the top of this piece, Ireland experienced the wettest summer of all time - and I did get wet. After several hours out in the very bad weather, this jacket would suffer from wetting out, which is when the amount of water attacking the jacket overwhelms it, and you get wet. But I was out on exposed mountains, in conditions that I wouldnt expect to be able to stay dry in. Every time Id adjust my hood, some rain would get in through my hands. It was just a part of life on those kinds of days. For the circumstances that this jacket went through, I think it survived incredibly well. Will this be my forever jacket? Yes - and no. I did think about framing it at the end of the project - I cannot stress enough how much this jacket got me through. But it also has a lot of life left in it. The only damage at the moment is a small hole I ripped in the right sleeve when scrambling down some rocks, which Ill patch in the coming days. A thorough washing and some re-waterproofing spray, and this jacket has many more good, bad days ahead of it (although, hopefully none of them are too soon, I feel like Ive only just started to dry out and its already a month since I finished). I have other rain jackets that are heavier, thicker, and more durable, and Ill probably use them on many of my winter hikes. This jacket is fantastic at doing what is was designed for, and saw me through stuff that was probably above its pay grade. Below is my video review, where I talk through all of the above, and include some overlay clips of me squinting into the rain, praying for a rock to shelter behind.0 Comments 0 Shares 99 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IESligo Day Hikes: KnocknareaKnocknarea & Queen Maeves TrailKnocknarea is one of Sligos most iconic peaks. Sitting on the south-west corner of the bay containing Sligo Town, this hill is small but mighty. While there have been walking routes around and across Knocknarea for years, it was in 2015 when the current trails were put in place. The route is now known as Queen Maeves Trail; named after the legend that the huge cairn and tomb on the summit of the hill is her resting place. Id walked and run this route several times since moving to the North-West of Ireland, and its still one of my favourite spots to go for a couple of hours of energetic walking. OverviewDistance: 8kmTime: 2 - 3hrs (depending on route and fitness)Parking:Car Park A: Sligo Rugby Football Club (2 optional parking donation)Car Park B: Coillte Rathcarrick Car Park (Free)Car Park C: Knocknarea Southern Side Car Park (Free)Trail difficulty: EasyThe trails on Knocknarea are very clear, with signposts at junctions for car parks. However there are one or two sections that can become very slippy when wet - this is mostly on the south-west side of the hill, on the climb/descent from the hills summit to car park C.Ive already called this hike small but mighty in the opening paragraph. Knocknarea is a hill with very steep climbs. The steepest sections are from car park A to the summit. Learn more about trail and hillwalking grading here.Trail quality: 5/5The trail is really well defined, but still feels like a trail. It changes surface / material every so often which keeps you mentally engaged and thinking about where youre going.Views: 5/5I think for the area that it is, you couldnt get nicer views!Buggy/Wheelchair friendly: NoIf youre looking to get to the summit, this is not a accessible route for buggies or wheelchairs. However, if youre looking for some general trails for a shorter walk, there are options here. The trail from car park B - C is the most accessible section: it has one or two steep sections, and a kissing gate at the forest entrance closest to car park C. Im pretty sure the trail is then unobstructed until the kissing gate at the top of the climb from the car park A / The Rugby Club. Dogs allowed: NoThe whole top half of Knocknarea is farmland, and every time Ive been I have seen sheep. There is explicit signage asking for no dogs on the hill. My usual starting point for this hike us the Sligo Rugby Football car park in Strandhill (marked as Car Park A on the map). This car park is the closest to sea level, and so will have the most climbing - if youre looking to get as much elevation gain as possible, its a good spot to start at. From here to the summit is about 2km, and the trails climbs a little over 300m. Setting off from the trail head, the path is fenced off from the surrounding fields with gravel underfoot. After a couple of minutes of gentle climbing, the path becomes a staircase. This is the first of the two main climbs from here to the summit. These steps can feel long - if you do struggle, theres a bench a bit over half way up. Its a great moment to look out across the bay to Sligos other famous peak: Benbulben. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize On reaching the signpost and kissing gates at the top of the steps, you can go left or right. Right brings you up to the summit, and on the loop that Im walking, Ill be coming back from the left path. The rolling gravel trail give a moment of reprieve, skirting the bottom of the forestry. After a few hundred meters, the trail turns back uphill and into the woods, moving onto bog-bridge (aka board walk or raised sleepers). This is the second major climb from this side. As the bog-bridge switches back and forth through the forest, its easy get mentally lost in the lines of trees, and not realise youve reached the end of the climb until daylight appears ahead. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize On a sunny day, I love how the light plays through the trees, lighting up the vibrant mosses near the bog-bridge. Once out onto the hillside the path returns to grass and gravel, the ascent slowing as the trail makes the final few hundred meters across the plateau summit to Queen Maeves Tomb - the massive cairn that you can see from miles around.The trail that loops around Knocknarea is known as Queen Maeves Trail - an Irish warrior queen from over 2,000 years ago. She was the Queen of Connacht, and the myths that surround her are as wild as the west coast landscape. One of the most famous stories of her life is about the Brown Bull of Cooley. Its a tale of power; where Queen Maeve steals the Brown Bull of Cooley from Ulster in order to equal her then husband's wealth and his white bull of Caunnacht. It is said that when Maeve died, she was laid to rest atop Knocknarea, standing upright, spear in hand, facing her enemies in Ulster. The cairn on top of the hill is certainly big enough to have buried Maeve in such a way - the enormous stone mound is over 10 meters tall, 60 meters wide, and is estimated to be made up of 30,000 tons of stone. The stone monument on the summit is one of Irelands most iconic neolithic sites, and is dated to be over 5,000 years old (so centuries Maeve would have walked the land). One of Irelands best kept passage tombs, the myths that surround this tomb are said to be partially why it has never been excavated by archaeologists such is the fear of Queen Maeves wrath. All along this trail youll find info boards and QR codes that tell of Queen Maeves life, her role in An Tain, and the stories shes inspired since. Theyre all small and blend in nicely with the area, providing the information for those who want it without overpowering the rest of the experience. The illustrations they have are also gorgeous. Weve even encountered Queen Maeves legacy in the trails weve walked before. The third trail we ever walked as Tough Soles was The Tain Way, a 40km trail that loops around the Cooley mountains, where she stole the brown bull from, with the very trail being named after the cattle raid. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Leaving the summit behind, the path becomes a less defined trail, with route worn down to the underlying rock. When wet this section can be quite slippy, but otherwise its a gorgeous descent to the the farm gate. Slipping through the kissing gate, follow the small farm lane down to car park C.This car park has seen the most development in recent years, and I know that on certain days there is a coffee van here! To keep following the loop, you have to walk down into the car park to the Yeats Trail statue and then almost double back on yourself along the trail beside the field.The trail from here can almost be called flat - there are a few climbs as we loop back around to car park B, but all of them are short. The gravel path twists in and out of the mixed woodland, opening up to views of the Dartry Mountains, Union Wood, and Lough Gill. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Youll come to a sign for car park B, the final car park! You can take the right turn descend down to the car park if youre looking to include as much elevation as possible (its also quite a pretty trail), or you can keep left and stay above it. The car park is a standard Coillte gravel car park.The final section from car park B to the top of the original split is in mostly through predominantly Sitka Spruce forests, but is still a lovely trail. There is one final hill in the route before you reach the top of the stairs back down to car park A (The Sligo Rugby Football Grounds), just to make sure youve sweat while out! View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Rating the difficulty of this trail is rather tricky, as the path is very clear and defined. However, there is a lot more climbing on the route than youd expect, and can feel quite strenuous. I dont have any worries of someone getting lost, but definitely allow yourself some time for the 6 - 8km, and bring some water/snacks!I love this trail, I think for such a small area it offers so much lovely walking. I know Ill be back many more times. Further exploringOther trails in the area: Union WoodKillaspugbrone Loop WalkAughris Head Coastal WalkMountain Hikes:Benbulben Summit HikeTruskmore: Sligo & Leitrims County High PointFavourite Local Coffee / Food Options:Shells of StrandhillRover Coffee Lab, Sligo0 Comments 0 Shares 90 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IEWinter Walking Festivals & Outdoor Events: 2023 - 2024I read a post recently that was wrapping up the summer hiking events - and in that, wrapping up the hiking season. While summer is definitely the best season for getting outdoors in Ireland, there is still so much we can do throughout the colder months! So with that, heres a list of winter walking festivals and outdoors related events that are happening from October 2023 - March 2024: Waterville Walking Weekend: 13th - 15th October 2023Where: Waterville, Co. KerryWhen: Friday 13th - Sunday 15th OctoberPrice: Free - 15This weekend includes a free childrens seashore walk, free heritage walk of Waterville, as well as hikes from 6km - 18km, all costing 15. Get ready to embark on some memorable adventures as we explore the breathtaking landscapes and trails of the breath taking scenery surrounding Waterville, Co Kerry.Whether you're a seasoned hiker or just starting to discover the joys of hillwalking, why not come join us for a weekend filled with camaraderie, fun and some walking in between.Learn more and book here. Mountaineering Ireland Autumn Gathering: 20th - 22nd October 2023This year we have the pleasure of the Kenmare Hillwalking Club hosting our Autumn Gathering in the beautiful setting of Sneem, Co. Kerry. The gathering will be based out of the Sneem Hotel. Registration for the weekend is 50 which is subsidised by Mountaineering Ireland and includes, talks, activities, workshops, dinner on Saturday evening, a gift, and buses where needed. There is an alternative fee of 20 for those who do not want to attend the Saturday evening dinner in the hotel.The weekend will start with registration from 6.30pm at the Sneem Hotel where you will receive a gift and full details for the weekend ahead. The welcome talk will take place from 8.00pm. Saturday sees a full programme of activities including hillwalking, navigation and climbing in and around the Kerry Mountains. Sunday morning will have a variety of workshops commencing at 10.00am.This years event takes us to some of the lesser known, yet beautiful, sandstone mountains on the Iveragh Pensinsula. The mountains surrounding Sneem have a wild and rugged character, with corrie lakes, rocky ridges, and big skies above. We also have some scenic sections of the Kerry Way for people to enjoy, all from the charming and colourful town of Sneem nestled on the northern side of Kenmare Bay.Book online here (you must be a member of MI to attend). The Wicklow Walking Festival: 27th - 29th OctoberWhere: Brockagh Resource Centre, WicklowWhen: Friday 27th - Sunday 29th October 2023Distances: multiple options every dayThe Festival will be based in the Brockagh Resource Centrewith many of the walks taking us through Wicklow Mountains National Park. The Centre is situated in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains, on the road between the village of Laragh and Glendalough. Eircode,A98 D3H1All walks are led by experienced walking leaders who willenhanceyour day with information on local history flora and fauna. More info and book here. The Nire Valley Drop: 29th October 2023Where: Ballymacarbry, Nire Valley, WaterfordWhen: 29th October 2023Distance: 45km The Nire Valley Drop MTB challenge takes place in and around the foothills of the Comeragh Mountains and the Nire Valley every October Bank Holiday.The Nire Valley Drop is an off road cross country cycle challenge, up hill and down hill, crossing forestry, moorland, and everything in between.Book online here. Run the Line 2023: 18th November 2023Fundraiser for the Dublin Wicklow Mountain Rescue TeamWhere: Glencullen, DublinWhen: Saturday 18th November, 9amDistance: Long Course 26km / Short Course 13kmRun The Line a fundraising race for Dublin Wicklow Mountain Rescue Team, returns on Saturday 18th November 2023. The event consists of two separate races (13km and 26km) across the Dublin Mountains, starting and finishing in Glencullen Adventure Park, and taking in many spectacular locations along the way offering breath-taking views of Dublin.More info on the event here, and register on eventmaster here. Long Way Round: 25th November 2023Fundraiser for the South Eastern Mountain Rescue Association (SEMRA)Where: Clonmel, Co. TipperaryDistance: 15kmCost: 35 - 37 Our 15Km fundraising night walk/run for SEMRA takes place on Saturday the 25th of November from Gaelcholaiste Cheitinn, The Mall, in Clonmel. All entries will receive a lovely new SEMRA buff.You will walk or run the 15km circuit in and around the Comeraghs at night. The route consists of roads, forest tracks and open mountain. You can do it yourself, with a group of friends or join a mixed group that will have leaders. The route will typically take an hour and half to run and three to four hours if walking.More info here, and register on Eventbrite here. Moonlight Challenge 2023: 25th November (FULL)Fundraiser for the Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue team Where: Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Base, TrooperstownDistance: 25.5km / 800m heigh climbThe Glen of Imaal team was founded in 1983 and is celebrating 40 years this year. It seems fitting that the theme brings us back to the 80s! This years MLC is approx 25.5 km and will start/finish at Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Base, Trooperstown (A98 VY72). During the event, the entire route will be marked with arrows and marshalled by our wonderful volunteers, so you will NOT be expected to navigate yourself. On the day of the event you will also have access to our app with an interactive map of the route.More info here. The LugMo Challenge: 2nd December 2023 (Sold Out)The LugMo Challenge is an annual winter hiking challenge, now in its 12th year with over 240,000 raised to date! This year, the winter challenge is a 22km crossing of Lugnaquilla, the highest mountain in Leinster, with all proceeds going to the Ronald McDonald House. The Ronald McDonald House provides a home, support and comfort to families when caring for their seriously ill child in hospital on a long-term basis. They strive to alleviate the practical, financial and emotional burdens placed on parents shoulders to allow them to spend as much quality time with their sick child.The event is currently sold out, but you can add your name to the waiting list via their instagram page, and donate here. Glen of Aherlow Winter Walking Festival: 26th - 28th January 2024While the event details are yet to be announced, we know that the Winter Walking festival dates are set for the 26th - 28th of January! Check out the 2023 Brochure here for a sample of events. Details will be here. Outsider Awards: Jan 2023The annual Outsider Awards event celebrates all of the amazing achievements, milestones and contributions that have taken place in the Irish outdoor community over the past year. In the run up to the event youll be able to read about the nominees from different categories on outsider.ieThis is always an inspiring evening of incredible stories, attending is always a treat!Read about last years awards here. Mountain Views Gathering: 1st March 2024Date: Fri, 1st March 2024Venue: TBA - Dublin area.Time: 7:30 for 8pm start.Price: 15Open to all! The mountain views gathering is a celebration of special moments and achievements of the hillwalking in the past year, and is always a lovely night. If youve been ticking off your county high points, or other mountain list challenge, you can register it on MountainViews.ie and receive a certificate when completed! Printed Annuals will be available. Wander Wild Festival 2024: 22nd - 24th March 2024What happens when you wander off the beaten track? You swim at sunrise in a lake - you climb Carrauntoohil to see Ireland from its peak - you bike, you run, you horse ride, you stroll, you kayak - you refuel with a food trail and you recharge with a wellness session. You experience Killarneys National Park, its lakes and its mountains like never before!Whether you are an adrenaline junkie or like to slide into the weekend with some mindfulness there is something to suit all our wanderers. Experience Killarney like never before at Wander Wild Festival March 2024More info here. Walk the Line: 23rd March 2024Fundraiser for the Dublin Wicklow Mountain Rescue TeamWhere: Glencullen Adventure ParkDistance: Short route 11km / Long route 22kmPrice: 65 solo / 75 guided Walk the Line 2024 is a fundraiser for Dublin Wicklow Mountain Rescue Team taking place on Saturday 23rd March from Glencullen Adventure ParkThe event consists of two route options: a 22Km loop and the shorter 11Km. Both loops start and finish at The GAP (the GlenCullen Adventure Park), just up the road from Johnnie Foxs.Walk the Line aims to cater for both the seasoned hill-walkers and also those walkers who want to give the hills a try with a super route around the Dublin Mountains. With this in mind, we offer the option of being guided along the route by Rescue Team members ( PRO Guided adventure ticket) or self-navigation (unguided / solo adventure ticket) for the more adventurous among you. Either way, you will have the opportunity to see Dublin laid out below you at night from the unique vantage point of the Dublin Mountains.Learn more and register here. Previously Ive written a list of walking festivals in 2021, which can be a guide for general festivals coming up next year! Know of more outdoors related events happening this winter? Let us know and well add it to the list!0 Comments 0 Shares 88 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IERecent Interviews & Podcasts on the Vandeleur-Lynams ChallengeThis summer, I climbed every mountain in Ireland - 275 peaks in 50 days, 5 hours, and 45 minutes, taking 5 days off the previous record set by James Forrest. Since finishing the Vandeleur-Lynams Mountain Project Ive got to do some really nice interviews and podcast chats about the project. Below, youll find the links to where you can read and listen back, and some reflections on certain questions that Ive kept thinking about since the interviews. Outsiders Hero of the WeekEllie Berry Climbed Every Mountain In Ireland: Hero of the WeekEllie Berry of Tough Soles has set a new speed record for climbing every mountain in Ireland. Ellie (29) spent her summer climbing all 275 mountains on the Vandeleur-Lynams list. The Tipperary woman took 50 days, 5 hours, and 45 minutes to complete the list, beating the previous record by 6 days. Ellie is no stranger to epic challenges however. Along with her partner Carl Lange, she completed all 42 National Waymarked Trails in Ireland between 2017 and 2019, totalling 4,000km.When Matt messaged me asking if Id be interested in doing an interview on Outsider about the project, I was delighted - I know that he and the team at Outsider put a lot of consideration into the stories they share on the website.One of the first questions he asked me was why? - why climb every mountain in Ireland?. After all the time Id spent thinking about the project while trudging through bog or striding across shale-scattered mountains, this question had never occurred to me. When the opportunity to do the Vandeleur-Lynams Project came around, there wasnt a moment of stopping to ask why, it simply felt like I was being offered this chance, and I jumped at it. Carl and I started Tough Soles in 2017, when we literally handed back our apartment keys and started walking. For me, it was all spurred by my deep love of being outside, seeing new places, making every week feel like it was a month long. Throughout the intervening six years, the why has never really changed, and has become so ingrained in my life that I sometimes forget it. I feel like there should be some big reason or important moment that started this [the Vandeleur-Lynams] project. But the simple answer is that I really love the outdoors, and this was just another possible project idea that would have me out in the mountains for most of the summer!Looking at my answer to this question now, it is true - but it feels lacking in some way. The sentiment is right, I know that my love for being outside in any capacity is what grounds me and makes me the most happy. But I feel like I still need to find the right way to say it - find the poetic elegance that might capture how much being outside means to me, without making it feel over dramatic. I couldnt have imagined a better way of spending those two months this summer. I felt so lucky to have had the chance to it - that Carl and I had saved enough so we could take two months off from work, and that Carl was willing to be my support crew for all that time. In a way, it feels like a luck that was both given to me, but that we worked for. I think I was on my last day in the Mournes (day 22) when the rain truly set in the rain that was going to haunt the rest of this project.Your life shrinks to the really simple things when youre on adventures like this. Life is stripped back to sleeping, walking, eating and recovering. Your world is your gear, the landscape, and the weather. And the weather was just bad.It feels very Irish for the biggest hurdle of this project to have been the rain - but here we are. While June was sticky and hot, July was then the wettest July on record, and there were several moments where I was almost washed away, literally and emotionally. Bad weather slows everything down: moving through it is harder; it takes more mental energy to make sure youre going the right way; when you finish a day youve to spend more time cleaning and organising your gear so that its in a (somewhat) fit state to be used again tomorrow; and then you just need more sleep to recover from the extra energy you spent.One small positive side to the bad weather conditions was that, on some of the days where I couldnt see what was ahead of me, I was calmer climbing the big mountains. In many ways, this whole project was an exercise in self-belief. Read the whole Outsider article here. No Finish Line Podcast with John OReganI think I first came across John ORegan many years ago, when I worked as a sales assistant in Great Outdoors in Dublin. He would come in to get equipment for his training and adventures, and a whisper would ripple through the shop staff that one of Irelands top runners was in. I dont think we ever crossed paths in those moments, but the awe stayed with me.An Irish international ultra runner, hes represented Ireland on the national team at World & European level, and has completed in some of the most extreme races from arctic to desert - including racing at the North Pole. Recently, Ive seen John run as a guide runner with blind athlete Sinead Kane, completing a marathon on each of the seven continents in less than seven days, and the Trans Sahara Marathon (140km across 4 stages). This August, I got to sit down and record an episode with John his Podcast - The No Finish Line Podcast. Having listened to the podcast for a few years, I knew that the conversations usually go deep into topics and explore areas that you might not usually hear on other podcasts - which stands to the breath of research that John does before each episode. For our conversation, we talked about the Vandeleur-Lynams, Tough Soles, Leave No Trace, and how it all links my artistic practice - an area I didnt expect our conversation to go to. Listen to the podcast: Listen on SpotifyListen on Apple PodcastsListen on Google PodcastsListen on PodbeanFind more options on Johns LinkTree Post Vandeleur-Lynams Video Debrief Coffee with Tough SolesAs we often do, Carl and I brewed some coffee, sat down, and got chatting about our recent adventures. It was nice to film this together, as this project really was a team effort. While I may be the one that gets to put their name to the record, I could not have done it alone. Carl was my one-stop-crew-shop: he drove us between mountains, did route finding research and made the GPX files for every day I was out there, and forced a protein shake into my hand each time I made it back to the car. Hes also the reason I actually broke the record. During that last week, when the rain just would not stop, and the exhaustion was high, Carl knew I had the record at my finger tips and kept pushing me out of the car. At that point, I would have happily stopped, I had climbed through enough rain. If Id been alone, I wonder would I have waited (in vain) for the weather to clear, and in that wasted precious days.Watch the video here. The Hiiker Podcast with Eoin Hamilton Ireland is a small country. You can pretty much drive from one end of the country to the other in less than a day.But this small Island off the west coast of Europe, is packed with some of the most beautiful and rugged landscapes in the world.Our little Island has 275 mountains according to the Vandeleur-Lynams scale, which classifies a mountain as being over 600m in elevation and 15m prominence.While bagging all of these peaks is not as widely spoken about as say the Munroes in Scotland, or the Wainwrights in the Lake District or the 14ers in the US, there are a number of people who have managed to scale all 275.My guest this week, Ellie Berry, not only ticked off all 275, but managed to do it in a new record time of 50 days and 5 hours! Beating the previous record by almost 5 days.Eoin is one of my favourite podcast interviewers - through the Hiiker podcast, he brings on guests that represent the vast variety of amazing people that make up the outdoor community, passing the mic to underrepresented voices, and ensuring plenty of laughs and smiles along the way. Carl and I first spoke on the Hiiker Podcast back in Season 1 back in 2020, where we talked about walking every National Waymarked Trail in Ireland. It was an absolute pleasure to be back on again - we really focused on the project itself, discussing what is a mountain (and how lists of mountains change over time), why do we push ourselves with such challenges, the mental struggles that come with challenging yourself, and the logistics of travelling around for two months! Listen to the podcast above, or find it at the following places: Listen on SpotifyListen on Apple Podcasts0 Comments 0 Shares 87 Views
- TOUGHSOLES.IESligo Day Hikes: Killaspugbrone Loop WalkKillaspugbrone Loop Walk Starting in the village of Strandhill, this looped walk is a delightful way to pass an couple of hours, offering fantastic views inland towards Knocknarea, Union Wood, and Benbulbin, as well as bringing you right past the early Christian site of Killaspugbrone church. One of my unexpected, personal highlights was to pass so close to Sligo Airport and get to watch planes take off and land right beside me. OverviewDistance: 7kmTime: 1.5 - 2hrsParking:Strandhill Seafront: here.Trail difficulty: EasyThis coastal trail has no climbs, looping around the small local headland. In some sections the surface underfoot can be quite uneven, but overall the trail is very approachable.Learn more about trail and hillwalking grades here.Trail quality: 3.8/5The first 4km - 5km are along rolling sand dune and beach trails, with the final ~2km along roads. All the major road sections have a footpath. Views: 4/5I think for the area that it is, you couldnt get nicer views!Buggy/Wheelchair friendly: NoDogs allowed: On a leadWay-marking: Purple arrow on a white background Killaspugbrone Loop is the sister trail to Queen Maeves Trail on Knocknarea. While following in the queens footsteps takes you climbing up steep cliffs and through towering forests, the other loop takes you right down to the sea shore, out far enough to have beautiful views back at the erratic landscape around you. Having done Queen Maeves trail countless times and enjoyed it immensely, I decided it was time to see where the lower loop would take me. And I was not disappointed. Starting on Strandhill Seafront, the info board for the walk is beside the Wild Atlantic Way sign framing the sea. Passing through the small gap in the wall, the trail goes past the local surf school, through the campsite, and onto the local sand dunes. As I wound my way through the billowing marram grass, I couldnt stop a smile from spreading across my face. I always love when trails manage to start completely off road in such simple, yet effective way. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The trail crosses from dune paths to sandy beaches and onto short concrete stretches of sea barriers as the route does its best to protect important parts of the habitat, while still bringing you through beautiful areas. The path then led me towards a high wire fence, a kissing gate set into the corner, large white signs warning from the far side. This is Sligo Airport (a fascinating tiny air strip that you can learn about here. It use to have daily flights from Sligo to Dublin back in the '80s!). The warning signs told me to wait if I saw any bright lights turned on, as it meant an aircraft would be taking off or landing. Looking around, I couldnt even see the lights turned off. Deciding that this still probably meant it was fine to go, I crossed along the bottom of the runway. On reaching the other side I stopped to fix my bag, and then looked up. Lights that had been invisible to me in the grass were now all alight, and I found myself grinning with excitement. I was now on the far side of the runway, so it was safe for me to just stand and wait for whatever was going to happen. Watching two small propellor planes swoop down and take off was so much fun - and it reminds me just how crazy the invention of flying really is. Walking on, the trail becomes less defined as it leads you out to the top of the headland. On reaching the furthest point out, I sat down beside the way-marker and took in the area around me. Sea birds waded on the rocks and sand barges between me and the two islands that almost close off the mouth of the bay. Looking at Maguins Island, Im pretty sure I spot some goats on the beach. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Carrying on, the next stop is for Killaspugbrone Church. Killaspugbrone church is said to have been founded by Saint Patrick in the fifth century. According to local folklore, when Saint Patrick visited the site he tripped on the rough ground I had been navigating and lost his tooth. The tooth was left in the church, and eventually housed in a gold relic - that is now preserved in the National Museum of Ireland. The present church ruins date back to around 1150 - 1220, with the Irish name of Cill Easpaig Bhrin. Translated, it means the church of the Bishop Brn. A side note: when I saw the English name of this trail, I could not figure out how to pronounce it. It was only on looking at the original Irish that I knew roughly how it should sound. Irish is a language that you typically pronounce exactly as it is spelled, so while I my Irish is very poor, I can break down words and say them, even if I dont always know what they mean. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The church ruin was quiet when I arrived, the wind pulling at my hair and making the long grass hiss all around me. Headstones and crosses worn by time and in the midst of their ancient battle with the soft earth and creeping vines were staging their last hurrah, tops just visible and listing to the side.Following the worn ground of past feet, I walked around the building to where a door once was and stepped inside. The silence surprised me. Id not realised just how much noise the wind was creating until I walked into air kept still by thick walls. The roof was long gone, the ground nothing more than dirt, but the place still felt special. I stood awhile and wondered about tripping saints and how religion seems like it was once an excuse to live in places where the elements fought like titans and life was made small, grounded. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Leaving the church behind, I descended down onto the beach (with beautiful views back up to the church from the sand) and headed along the shore line. Not far along there's a large red and white stripped pole, with a smaller way-maker beside it pointing back inland through the dunes. Climbing up and through, there is a short forest section of pines, and you emerge out at the side of a small lane. The trail turns right, following the lane a short bit to pass the other end of the air strip, and then turns off onto a gravel path. The path hugs the edge of the high tide line, a small river estuary currently the only water meandering past. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize The turn uphill off the waters edge isnt completely obvious (if you keep going you can take the next turn up as well). Reaching the top of the short climb, youll find yourself at the petrol station and the Sligo Rugby Club car park, which is the start point for Queen Maeves trail across Knocknarea. I mentally wave at the trailhead across the road from me, and keep following the road into town. From here the route is just along the main road into Strandhill. For a road section, it has footpath the whole way, and it takes the most direct route, and I quicken my pace for this section. When looking at the overall distance of the trail, this 2km-ish section is technically more than I think it is. I think because I walked the first 5km so slowly, soaking up the different views and spending time at the church ruin, that final stretch didnt feel as much as it was. While this trail is easy, lowland walking, it is very exposed to the elements. Outside of the summer months, Id recommend bringing many layers - and even in summer, be prepared for the wild Atlantic to live up to its name. Further exploringOther trails in the area: Knocknarea & Queen Maeves TrailUnion WoodAughris Head Coastal WalkMountain Hikes:Benbulben Summit HikeTruskmore: Sligo & Leitrims County High PointFavourite Local Coffee / Food Options:Shells of StrandhillRover Coffee Lab, Sligo0 Comments 0 Shares 86 Views
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