In the north-west of Ireland, you will find wild mountains being left to nature, with narrow trails winding over ridges and wrapping around hillsides. Youll find silence, and then the thousand tiny sounds of nature will fill your ears. OverviewDistance: 10 - 12km Format: Looped trailTime: 2.5 - 5hrs, depending on how long you want to explore! Parking: the primary parking for this loop is the Letterkeen Trail Head (Google Maps link). If youre visiting and its busy, there is another car park about a 15 minute walk away: Sragrevagh Trailhead (Google Maps link). Letterkeen can suffer from overcrowding, so if youre coming as a group (especially in the summer) carpooling is advisable. Trail difficulty: Easy - ModerateThis is a waymarked route with purple arrows. You walk along riverbanks, stony valley floors, forest trails and woodland. Read how we rate trails here.Trail quality: 5/5This has long been one of my favourite trails. The terrain underfoot is great - with no road walking, and only a short while on forestry access tracks towards the end.Views: 5/5For a trail that only reaches a high point of 311m, the views of the surrounding mountains are fantastic. Buggy/Wheelchair friendly: NoDogs allowed: Yes - keep dogs on leadToilets: There are permanent port-a-loos installed at the Letterkeen Trail HeadWhen was I here: July 2026External links: National Parks WebsiteFind the route GPX on HiiKEROur long-form video on YouTube The Letterkeen Trailhead is somewhere Ive visited many times; most notably, when walking the Western Way back in 2018 (with extremely bruised soles and skin that had been eaten alive by the intense midgies that Mayo is infamous for) and last year in March 2025 to walk the Bangor Trail with my friend Pauline. To come back and film some of the day hikes that the NPWS have developed has been on my to-do list for far too long. And so on a mid-July morning, I pulled into an almost-empty trail head car park. My main fear as I opened the van door was the already mentioned munching insects. However the mild threat of rain that hung over the area seemed to be keeping the worst away, and so I began to pack my bag quickly and get on trail. The route is listed as 12km on all the signage, but I think its closer to 10.5km. However, if its your first time visiting the park, its worth budgeting some extra walking in your legs in case you see view points you want to explore. The Letterkeen Loop is the longest of the four looped walks that leave the main car park. At the trailhead there are also permanent port-a-loos, and the Brogan Carroll bothy. This is the first true bothy I ever experienced in Ireland, and as far as Im aware, was the first one to be renovated/created. Its a simple, single stone room with a map of the park, a notice board with shuttle bus details and other things worth noting for walkers passing through. The old famine cottage was renovated by Mayo County Council and An Taisce thanks to donations by two Irish-Americans, John Brogan and Barry Carroll. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize All the trails here are way-marked in one direction. Beforehand I wouldve said Im not a fan of this idea - but it means that your experience of the park feels more empty than it might be. If youre all walking in the same direction, your only chance to overlap is when someone takes a long enough break. So as I set off on the path out of the car park and over the wooden bridge, I was pretty much alone. The path meanders around some gorse and along the riverside, narrow enough that it feels like it gets more sheep traffic than human. The river gully is deep, and in summer the ferns stand tall along the banks. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize After maybe a kilometre, the trail makes its way from the twisting riverbanks and widens into a stony path. At the 1.5km mark, blue arrows point into the forest, marking the turn off for the 5km Bothy Loop. There is an imperceptible uphill to this valley, and as you look ahead and see the small rise ahead, you can see the trail cut across the top of it. This climb feels a little more serious, but is still pleasant and gives great views back down the valley. Along this stretch youll also come across weathered way-markers from the Bangor Trail - the little green walking man almost consumed by the grey lichens. After youve passed the 4km mark, youll encounter another turn off to the right with a red way-marker: this is the Lough Avoher Loop. If the climb you just did was as much climbing as youre able for today, take this turn off. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Only a few hundred meters ahead is the Lough Avoher Shelter. This is one of two such Adirondack Shelters in the National Park. Mountain Meitheal (Irelands volunteer trail building organisation) adopted this style of shelter and have built several around the country along different trails (learn more here). I love these little huts, and had planned for this to be my lunch break. Arriving in the height of the summer season, there was more rubbish left behind than Ive previously seen, but not terribly mistreated. Ten days later I was back with a group, and we removed what was there. Overall, I feel like the people who visit this area respect the Leave No Trace or Pack it in, Pack it out mentality, because its a little harder to get here than most places, and fewer people know it exists. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Leaving the shelter, the trail consistently climbs. Quite quickly, the tree line changes from being a tall presence hugging the path, to swishing branches below. The lake of Lough Avoher peeps through the branches. The trail here actually hugs the park boundary, although youd have no idea apart from the line drawn on a map. For the 2km after the shelter, the ground is a little more boggy than before, and the trail dips in and out of the forest. Soon, the path comes to the highest point of the loop, a 311m spot height with no name that I know of. The views all around are beautiful, even on the hazy day that I was there filming. Descending from here, there is a more substantial forest section. There are some fallen trees inside the forest which look a little dramatic, but overall its still very passable. This section can also be muddy and slippy. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize Popping out of the other end of the forest, the little ridge line of Aroher Hill feels almost tall and imposing ahead of you. But the trail turns left, and brings you down onto the easy-going forestry track that the Western Way also follows, back to the Letterkeen trailhead. On the way youll pass other designated camping locations, an etherial elk*, and the steady flow of water once more. View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize View fullsize * Tenaya is a life-sized willow sculpture of an Irish Elk by artist Brendan Farren. The Irish Elk, Megaloceros giganteus, was a species of giant prehistoric deer that it is thought to have gone extinct some 8000 years ago due to human hunting and the changing climate.The sculpture was commissioned by the National Parks & Wildlife Service to commemorate the twinning of Wild Nephin National Park with Yosemite National Park in May 2024, and installed along the Letterkeen Looped walk in Wild Nephin. It is named after Tenaya, the last leader of the Ahwahnechee native people in the Yosemite Valley. Indeed the Nephin Beg range of mountains is, I think, the very loneliest place in this countryROBERT LLOYD PRAEGER Further exploringThis area is truly quite remote, so some of my recommendations below are for Mayo in general:Other trails in the area: The Western Way: Mayo (multi-day hike)The Western Way: Galway (multi-day hike)Croagh Patrick Heritage Trail (multi-day hike)Keenagh Loop: Mayo.ie info (day hike)Favourite Local Coffee / Food Options:The Misunderstood Heron, MurriskThis Must be the Place, Cafe in Westport Other media: Stephen Reids video of the Bangor Trail includes some great research on the history of the area

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Packing for a backpacking trip can be a complicated endeavour, but my handy backpacking packing list will walk you through the absolute essentials to invest

Jon Doran enlists his partner to help review Rabs latest daysack for womenReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersRab might not be a traditional pack brand, but the Sheffield-based down and clothing outfit has drawn heavily on the expertise of its pack-specialist Lowe Alpine stablemates to create an ever-expanding range of backpacks including the impressive new Airox ND22L day pack, a hot-weather friendly, lightweight womens pack with a difference.The ND designation it stands for Narrow Dimension is actually Lowe Alpines longstanding womens-specific pack marker. It means that the packs are narrower and shorter, mainly to suit the female anatomy, but also to cater for anyone of a slighter build. Its all based on genuine research and design rather than a performative shrink and pink process too. Theres lots more to the Airox than that, but our tester appreciated the neat, female-friendly fit. On a hot, heat-wave weekend, the pack was just the right size for everything needed for a day in the hills, up to and including a lightweight shell jacket just in case.xxxxxHydrationThere are multiple water-carrying options, an internal sleeve and central outlet for a hydration reservoir, but also two mesh side pockets that can take a water bottle each and, a feature borrowed from running vest and adventure race packs, a wide shoulder-strap pocket designed specifically to hold a soft-flask within easy reach.Theres also a mesh phone, bar or gel pocket on the other shoulder, two cavernous hip-belt zipped-pockets, a big bucket stash pocket on the front of the pack and a zipped top-pocket too. And then, of course, the main compartment with zipped access.Even this is a little bit different. A deep zip means you can pretty much open up the entire back panel like a big trekking pack, for easy access to deeply buried treasure. All of which is fantastic and optimal for organised kit loading. Fun fact: a Lowe Alpine research project back in the day, found that women appreciated having multiple pockets far more than men, who in turn would happily carry their kit in a pack modelled closely on a large bin liner.xxxxxIn the hills, those pockets were brilliant. It turned out to be very straightforward to access snacks, wallet, phone, a sun-hat, a 5m dog long line, sun cream, a one-litre water bottle, an actual paper map, a lightweight windshell, some very fetching sun-glasses, two apples, a banana and the sort of bunch of keys traditionally carried by prison warders, without ever having to open the main compartment. Mind blown.There is one potential downside to the runner-vest, pocketed shoulder straps though, theyre quite wide and have noticeable edging, which our tester found slightly uncomfortable for her narrow shoulders. Theres also the thorny and personal issue of the boob-strap interface. Our advice is to consider trying before buying to be on the safe side.Back systemIf two of the packs design influences are running and trekking, the back-system is squarely cadged from the sort of ventilated, trampolene-type back systems Lowe Alpine has been producing and perfecting for years. Theres nothing massively radical about the AEROFIT back, think maximum mesh area, a perimeter frame and board to keep the air-gap, erm, gapped and shoulder straps and hip-belt lined with comfortable, but lightweight, perforated breathable mesh.xxxxxThe good news though, is that it works very, very well indeed, both in terms of giving a really comfortable, evenly spread carry. And, to our testers delight, keeping her back enviably dry on the sort of summers day when most packs leave your back a sodden, soggy mess, dont ask how I know etc. You can equally well use it in cooler weather conditions too, but its one of the most effective hot weather harnesses weve used, which given the state of the UK climate, is probably just as well.While were talking weather, the pack also comes with a neat-fitting. waterproof, zip-out rain-cover housed in a handy base pocket and very effective at prolonging dry spells, at least during our testing. Other stuff? Weight is impressively light at 850g, particularly considering all the bells and whistles that come as standard and build quality feels excellent with tough 140D and 212D ripstop nylonfabrics and industry standard buckles and zips.xxxxIf youre a trekking pole user, youll be glad to hear theres a small, but perfectly-formed bungee-based pole-holding system. And if the stripped-back 22-litre capacity isnt quite enough for you, there are also narrow dimension ND28 and ND34 versions of the Airox with more conventional lidded access to the main compartments, but the same back system and running-type shoulder pocket arrangements.Also in the range, so men dont feel too left out, are standard dimension Airox 18L and 24L packs, the latter basically a mens version of this pack, as well as larger 30L and 36L models.VerdictAll in all the Airox ND22L is a really neat, well-designed and impressively effective hot-weather pack designed with the female form in mind. The multiple pockets and stowage options make it easy to organise and access your kit for a day out on the hills. It carries really nicely, as well or better than many non-ventilated packs and overall, is a great advert for Rabs burgeoning pack range, which is well worth considering if youre in the market for anything from an all-round day pack right up to a full-on 80L trekking load-hauler. The good news is that womens options are offered right through the range apart from climbing and mountaineering packs which are designated unisex.The Rab Womens Airox ND22L retails for 120 and should keep your back dry and comfortable for years to come.More info at: www.rab.equipmentWeight: 850g / 1lb13.9oz (Size S-M)Main fabric: 140D nylon (69% recycled) with yarn dyed nylon 210D rip stopSecondary fabric: 420D NylonFabric lining: Embossed 200d Polyester (100% recycled)Volume: 22 / 1343cu.inDimensions: 50 x 28 x 25cmBack system: AEROFITBack length: 16-18 / 41-46cmFind your local Rab stockist using the store locator below:https://rab.equipment/uk/stockists

Somewhere along the way, England quietly became a proper wine country. Not in an ironic, "isn't-that-sweet" way, but in a winning-blind-tastings-against-Champagne way. Those chalky southern hills that gave us the white cliffs turn out to be almost identical to the soils of northern France, and English sparkling has spent the last decade collecting medals to prove it.

The most common feeling people describe before their first campervan hire is a vague nervousness that they cannot quite explain. They are not nervous about driving. They have been driving for years. They are nervous about the unknown: what happens on the day, what is actually in the campervan, what to do if something goes wrong at midnight on a quiet road in Connemara.Most of those worries dissolve within an hour of collecting the campervan. But it helps to know what the process looks like before you arrive. This guide covers everything from booking to return, based on exactly how the hire works at Craic N Campers.Browse Our Full FleetStep 1: BookingYou can book online through the booking engine on our site, or call us directly. Phone bookings take a 250 deposit to secure the dates. Online bookings take 50% of the total hire cost at the time of booking.If you book by phone, Joe at our Roscommon depot or Christopher at Greystones depot will walk you through the options: which campervan suits your group, which dates work, what to consider for your route. Most first-time hirers find that a five-minute phone conversation answers every question they had. The balance is due a couple of weeks before your start date.Once you have booked, the dates are confirmed and the campervan is held for you.Step 2: Choosing your security deposit optionThis is the part of the process that generates the most questions, so it is worth explaining clearly.We offer three security deposit tiers. Each one sets your excess the maximum you would be liable for in the unlikely event of accidental damage and the lower two tiers carry a daily charge to bring that excess down.Standard Cover 2,000 excess: no additional daily charge.Mid-Level Cover 1,000 excess: an additional 15 per day.Premium Cover 500 excess: an additional 50 per day. This is also our most comprehensive tier on top of the lower excess, it includes cover for damage to mirrors, windscreen and tyres.In short: the more you pay per day, the lower your excess and the more youre covered for. Premium Cover gives you the most protection of the three.All deposits are fully refundable if the campervan comes back in the same condition it left.You choose your deposit option when you book. You can change it right up until the online check-in two days before pickup. Many customers take time to think it over and adjust their choice once they have read the full details.Think of it like choosing an excess on a car insurance policy: the lower your excess, the more you pay per day for that lower risk. Most customers on shorter trips choose Mid-Level Cover a middle ground between no daily fee and full peace of mind. Customers doing longer or more remote trips more often choose Premium Cover, since it carries the lowest excess of the three and is the only tier that also covers mirror, windscreen and tyre damage the kind of wear-and-tear that becomes more likely the further and longer youre on the road.Step 3: The online check-in (two days before pickup)Two days before your hire begins, you receive an email with a link to the online check-in. This is where the trip actually starts to feel real.In the online check-in you will: upload a photo of your driving licence, confirm your personal details, finalise your deposit tier choice, and add any extras you want, such as a table and chairs. A bike rack comes as standard with every hire, so theres nothing to add there.By the time you arrive at the depot, the paperwork is largely done. The online check-in takes about ten minutes.Step 4: Pickup dayArrive at the depot at your agreed time. Plan for about 30 minutes for the full pickup process. It is thorough but relaxed.When you arrive, you will sign the rental agreement and confirm your return time. A member of the team will sit down with you and be realistic about return. This is worth taking seriously: we dont offer Sunday drop-off, and our minimum rental is three nights, so a Friday pickup means a Monday morning return. The return time is agreed at pickup, and being late when the next customer is waiting is the one thing that causes the most friction in the hire process.After the agreement is signed, the security deposit is taken.Then comes the demonstration. A member of the team will take you through the entire campervan: every system, every switch, every compartment. You will learn how to turn the gas on and off, how the water system works and how to fill the fresh water tank, how to set up the sleeping areas, how the heating works on electrical hook-up and on gas, how to use the toilet and where to empty the cassette, and how to hook up to an electric pitch at a campsite.This sounds like a lot. In practice it takes about 20 minutes, and by the end you know the campervan well enough to feel comfortable. Its worth giving this demonstration your full attention every campervan also has QR codes on board linking to quick refresher guides for each system, so you can check back any time during your trip if something slips your mind. Members of the team have done this demonstration hundreds of times and are very good at it: calm, patient, and good at reading whether you need more time on any particular system.After the demonstration, you load your bags, and you are on the road. Most people say this is the moment the holiday actually begins.Step 5: During the hireThe campervan is yours. Go where you planned, or change the plan. Both work.If something slips your mind while youre away how to reset the heating, how the waste disposal point at a campsite works the QR codes on board are the quickest way to find the answer, the same ones covered in your pickup demonstration. Our out-of-hours number is there for genuine emergencies during your trip.Every hire includes full 24-hour breakdown cover across Ireland, Northern Ireland and the UK. If the campervan has a mechanical issue, you call the breakdown number, not us. But it is included, it is real, and it covers you throughout the trip.Step 6: Returning the campervanYou receive a text message the day before your return to confirm the time. Arrive at the agreed time.When you return, you unload first. Then the campervan is inspected together with a member of the team you are present for the whole check, and nothing happens out of sight. If there is no damage, the security deposit is released. If there is minor damage, it is discussed at that point.A few days later, we send a personal thank-you email. If the deposit is being returned, it is confirmed in that email. There is also a link to leave a review. No obligation, but it genuinely matters to a small business, and we read every one.What is inside the campervanEvery hire includes:Fully equipped kitchen: hob, oven, grill, fridge, freezer, crockery, glasses, cutlery, pots and pansA hot showerA private toiletThe main sleeping area12V power inverter for charging phones and devicesCentral heatingCab air conditioningWhat you need to bring:FoodPersonal toiletriesClothesBed linenThe question everyone asks: is it hard to drive?Shorter than you think to get used to. Most of our fleet is automatic, which makes a significant difference on Irish roads though it is a mix, so do check when you book if this matters to you. Width awareness takes a day. After that, most customers report it feels normal.The one thing worth knowing: in Connemara, Kerry and Donegal, some roads are single-track with passing places. You slow down, one of you pulls in, the other passes, everyone waves. It is not stressful once you accept it as the pace of the west of Ireland.Getting startedBrowse our full fleet to choose the right campervan for your group. If you are picking up from our Greystones depot and arriving from Dublin Airport, the Dublin Airport pickup guide has the full directions and journey time. Our FAQ page has answers to the most common pre-hire questions.If you are still unsure about anything, call us. First-timer questions are what Joe and Christopher answer most days, and they are genuinely good at it.Browse Our Full FleetThe post First Time Hiring a Campervan in Ireland? Here Is Everything You Need to Know (2026) appeared first on Craic N Campers.