Thinking of heading to the Alps for the first time? Chamonix-based mountain guide Will Harris talks us through the things to think about when planning your first alpine adventureThe European Alps are perennially popular with mountaineers, and for good reason; they offer an extensive range of mountain activities from short hikes to multi-day alpine climbs, and by looking beyond the honey-pot destinations its possible to find relative solitude. Bigger in scale and more committing in nature than the mountains found at home, they demand a greater level of fitness and extra skills. Venturing into them for the first time can be daunting; how do you choose the right routes to try, and what about the extra dangers posed by glaciers and seracs? The good news is that there are mountains to climb regardless of your level of experience back at home, particularly if a qualified mountain guide is hired to lead you through your first alpine experiences. In this article we are going to consider some of the factors to think about when heading off on your first trip, be that with or without the assistance of a mountain guide. Were focussing here on mountaineering on snow and rock, but the Alps is also a great destination for multi-day hiking, and for experienced UK hillwalkers is very accessible without the assistance of an international mountain leader.Guided or unguided?For a first-time visitor to the Alps the major decision to make is whether to employ the services of a mountain guide, for either part or all of the trip. A good way to think about his is to consider what you want to do with your trip, and what skills you already have. If you come from a UK climbing background you may already be well practiced in climbing on rock, snow and ice, and know how to navigate in poor weather and generally look after yourself in the mountains. In this case, after some time spent learning how to travel safely on a glacier you may feel confident to venture out alone. Alternatively, recognising that you need to brush up on your skills in these areas you may decide to hire a guide.Hiring a British Mountain Guide is a great way to get startedMountain guides hold the highest qualification available in the outdoor industry, and provide both guiding and instruction. They know the areas in which they work very well, and by having a handle on current conditions can choose the venues and routes most suited to your aims and abilities. To make the most of your time with a guide its important to discuss what you want to get from your trip with them in advance, with the guide then shaping your time in the mountains to meet your needs.It may be that you would like to enjoy your climbs without spending time learning additional skills, happy for the guide to lead you up routes, maximising your enjoyment and allowing you to complete routes that would otherwise be beyond your level of experience. In this case the guide is there to do just that, to help you to make the best use of the available time and get in as much great climbing as possible.Alternatively, you may aspire to climb with your partner on more challenging routes but recognise that you lack some of the skills needed to get there. A guide will be able to spend time teaching the skills that you need to progress to climbing independently, whilst also allowing you to sample alpine routes whilst safe in the knowledge that someone else is keeping an eye firmly on safety.Those aged 18 to 30 should consider applying for a place on a Conville course, a series of subsidised courses designed to give young climbers the skills that they need to safely progress to the Alps. Not only will you get to learn from experienced British Mountain Guides, but you will meet lots of other young, motivated climbers at the campsite in Argentiere where the courses are based.PreparationClimbing big alpine peaks is hard work, with long summit days on little sleep, often the day after a steep hike up to a hut. To get the most out of your trip, and more importantly to make sure that you enjoy it, put effort into being fit before you leave home. On classic alpine routes the ability to haul your way up the overhang at your local climbing wall isnt relevant; what you need is the ability to maintain a steady pace when walking up hill for an extended period, whilst carrying a rucksack. This doesnt mean that you need to engage in a serious training programme at the local gym, but rather gives you a great reason to get out in the hills in the UK and complete some longer outings. Big days out scrambling, trying to get in at least 1000m of height gain over several hours, will be perfect preparation. Equally, use this time to test out gear, break in new boots and brush up on skills such as navigation and using a rope whilst moving together on scrambling terrain, which will come in useful when you get to the Alps.AcclimatisationMany climbers arrive in the Alps and jump straight onto 4000m peaks, and whilst some people will cope will with this, many wont. As we climb to higher altitudes the lower atmospheric pressure means that less oxygen makes its way into our bloodstream with each breath. Our bodies adapt to this through the process of acclimatisation, but this takes time. When we try to shortcut this process by rushing up high too soon we are at risk of developing acute mountain sickness (AMS), which is to say that we will experience symptoms including headaches, dizziness, nausea and an inability to sleep. AMS is a potentially serious condition, and if you start to recognise these symptoms in yourself or others then the only sensible option is to descend to the last altitude at which you felt well.Walking out onto the Midi ridge in ChamonixNo one wants to spend their holiday feeling like they have a hangover, especially without getting to drink the booze first, so to maximise enjoyment (and safety) a sensible approach to acclimatising should be adapted. This shouldnt however be seen as a chore, but instead as a reason to explore some of the lower peaks that the Alps has to offer. By spending the first few days of your trip climbing on peaks at around 3000m, combined with a night or two sleeping at around 2000m, you will acclimatise well, meaning that you can step up onto the bigger 4000m peaks in comfort.Choosing a venueThe European Alps are huge, comprised of different massifs each with their own distinct character. Last-minute flexibility in choosing where to head based on conditions is a great advantage, but its good to have some ideas about the valleys that you would like to visit. Many Brits flock to the honey-pot of Chamonix, but other areas should be considered, often offering more suitable options for a first alpine trip. The mountains in Switzerland running from Arolla to Saas Fee have some great, easy accessible classic mountaineering at modest difficulty. If big rock routes on flawless granite sound like your idea of fun then look at the Bragaglia, or combine the Salbitschijen with the peaks above Andermatt. If the weather takes a turn for the worse then it may be worth driving for a few hours to find better options, for example, the Ecrins often have better weather when deepest Switzerland is soaked in rain.Where to now? Route-finding is a vital skillRoute planningSuccess in the mountains is based on good planning, from choosing the right route to making sure that you are in the right places at the right times. This demands a flexible approach, making the most of what the weather throws at you.Conditions on routes change throughout the season, from year to year. Through the summer snow melts away, making snow-based mountaineering routes potentially more hazardous but bringing alpine rock objectives into shape. This process differs from year to year, all depending on the recent weather. The trick selecting an appropriate route is then choosing an objective that suits your skills and ambitions and is also in good condition.To find up to date conditions reports cast your net wide, checking reports provided by guides bureaus both online and at their offices, read blogs, check forums such as UKClimbing.com, check what people have logged recently on websites such as camptocamp.com, and speak to other climbers that you meet. If you hear that a route is in good condition, then think about what similar routes might also be in good shape.On the legendary Cosmiques RidgeOnce you have selected a route, do as much research into it as you can. Use guidebook times as a rough estimate to help you to work out when you need to set off in the morning, remembering that it is safer to descend snow slopes and cross glaciers when they are well frozen. This often means a super-early alpine start, allowing you to be back at the hut by late morning.Sleeping up highThe scale of many Alpine mountains, along with the need to finish descending snow slopes early in the day, means that an overnight stay up high is needed before an early departure. Luckily, the Alps is well served by an extensive network of huts providing accommodation for eager climbers. Staying in a hut high in the mountains can be as much of a highlight as the climbing itself, often beautiful buildings located in glorious locations, serving delicious food. Huts are staffed in season, managed by a guardian heading a small team of assistants who work hard to make sure that dinner is served on time and guests enjoy their stay. Hut guardians are often extremely knowledgeable about the surrounding areas, and are usually willing to update guests on current conditions and give advice about routes. Keeping to the following guidelines will ensure that you have a smooth stay in a hut:Book ahead: It is best practice to call ahead to book a place, instead of turning up and hoping that there is space. Popular huts often fill up during the busiest periods. Cancellations: Huts will have their own cancellation policy, but as a rule you should try and give 24 hours notice if you choose not to visit. Make sure that you let hut wardens know if you arent going to turn up.Sleeping: Bring a silk sleeping bag liner to insulate yourself from the blankets provided, both for your comfort and to keep blankets clean. In the morning remember to neatly fold blankets away.Alpine bunks: In many huts you will be sharing alpine bunks, wide beds with several people sleeping in them. The chances are that someone will be snoring, so remember your ear plugs!Mountain hut etiquette is something youll learnThere are some routes that are not easily reached from a hut, and for these a bivouac, or bivi for short, will be the best option. This simply means that you will sleep outside, often using a waterproof bivi bag over your sleeping bag in place of a tent. Sleeping out in the mountains can be an amazing experience, and with good gear and a well-practiced system a good nights sleep can be had. As you progress to longer, steeper and harder routes it may be necessary to bivi mid-route, tied onto ledges. Biviing or camping in the mountains can be a great way to save money for those with limited funds, but make sure that you pay attention to local bylaws which may forbid camping in certain spots.There are plenty of small unstaffed bivi shelters scattered around the alps, some of which will have blankets and cooking equipment. Places in these basic shelters are filled on a first come first served basis, so to get a space in popular places such as Fourche Bivouac on Mont Maudit it makes sense to get there early. These smaller shelters are usually in places unserved by larger huts, and can often provide greater solitude without the need to carry extra equipment to bivi outside.Alpine hazardsClimbing in the Alps can be a deeply rewarding experience, but there is no escaping the fact that the alpine environment features additional hazards to those found in the UKs mountains. Its up to each individual to decide what level of risk they are willing to be exposed to, deciding when to turn bac based on your own observations, not what other people are choosing to do.Glaciers: The rivers of ice which cascade down alpine mountains make travelling through them magical, but the crevasses that line them pose a real threat. Crevasses, or deep cracks in the ices surface, are often hidden by a thin layer of snow known as snow bridges. To fall through a bridge into a crevasse unroped can be fatal, so its essential that you know how to properly rope up for glacier travel, and how to construct the anchors and pulley system needed to extract someone should they fall in. As glaciers retreat, an ever-quickening process accelerated by global warming, they leave unstable moraine banks of earth and precariously balanced rock on their banks where care should be taken, paying attention to areas of potential rock fall.Practising crevasse rescue techniquesSeracs: A serac is a hanging cliff of ice which are prone to collapse, formed when glaciers meet steep slopes or cliffs. Some seracs can look reasonably benign, whilst others are more active, yet all can fail catastrophically, releasing an avalanche of frozen blocks. The safest way to deal with seracs is to avoid travelling underneath them altogether, yet many classic routes such as the Trois Monts on Mont Blanc pass underneath them. It is up to you to decide what level of risk you are willing to accept, but if you do choose to pass underneath seracs then make sure that you do it quickly, limiting your exposure time.Rockfall: Loose rock can be encountered in the mountains back at home, but the scale on which it can be found in the Alps means that it can be a much greater problem. As the permafrost that holds alpine mountains together thaws in hot summers rockfall can become a serious threat on many routes, with things becoming more dangerous throughout the day as snow melts, releasing blocks. Try and find out what current conditions are like, passing areas of potential danger quickly, early in the day when temperatures are cool.Weather: Hardened winter climbers will be used to going out in the Scottish mountains in challenging (awful) weather, but on alpine scale mountains this isnt an option. During the summer months it is common for violent afternoon thunder storms to build, with lighting posing a serious threat to those caught up high. Another good reason to make sure that you are safely off the hill early in the day.A few basic skills will take you to places like thisHave an adventureAlpine climbing is deeply rewarding, travelling to beautiful places with great friends to push yourself hard on big mountains. Remember the old saying that the best alpinist is an old alpinist, and always be prepared to turn back if time is running away, conditions are poor or things just dont feel right. Dont epic, instead build a base of experience upon which later exploits can develop. And finally, enjoy one of the best holidays around.Useful website and booksJonathan Conville Memorial TrustJCMT offers alpine training to young people between the ages of 18-30 and these include several courses preparing for, and starting out, alpine climbing in the Alps.More info: www.jcmt.org.ukBritish Mountain GuidesFor ensuring your first alpine sortie is successful (and safe) or for attempting routes that are beyond your current skill level, hiring a British Mountaim Guide is highly recommended. There are plenty of BMG members living and operating in the Alps, so get in touch and explain exactly what youd like to achieve on your upcoming trip.More info: www.bmg.org.ukRoute infoThere are several great sites for checking out routes in advance, and checking current conditions in specific areas or routes. These include UK Climbing (www.ukclimbing.com), Camp To Camp (www.camptocamp.com) and Summit Post (www.summitpost.org).BooksThere are several mountaineering books that contain specific sections on alpine mountaineering and some of the best of these include Bruce Goodlads Alpine Mountaineering, Alun Richardsons Mountaineering and Pete Hills The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering. All are available on Amazon and other online stores.