As he prepares to head to Nepal to attempt a record-breaking 20th (for a Western climber) summit of Everest, we chat to Kenton Cool about what motivates him to go back, how climbers can do their part in promoting sustainability on the mountain, and what to look for when choosing which guiding or logistics company to go withWhat motivates you to keep returning to Everest: records, money, love of the mountain/people/culture or all of the above?Ive got a deep affection for the mountain itself her history, her size, her sheer presence. You cant spend that many seasons on Everest without forming a bond with the mountain. The people are a huge part of it too. The Sherpa community have been my friends and colleagues for decades; returning each year feels a bit like coming home. Yes, guiding is my profession, and of course theres a financial element I have a family to support but if it were just about money, Id have stopped a long time ago. In truth, its the combination of culture, camaraderie, challenge and the privilege of helping others realise a lifelong dream.Youve climbed from both sides of Everest; how do they compare and do you have a preference?Ive actually only ever climbed from the South Side (Nepal) and its where my relationships with the Sherpa and knowledge of the mountain have formed. People often ask whether Id like to try the North. Perhaps one day. But the South Side has given me everything I could hope for: challenge, beauty, camaraderie, and a deep connection to the people who make the whole endeavour possible.Kenton could tick off his 20th Everest summit this season if all goes to planWhat are the main environmental factors affecting Everest at the moment?The big three in my opinion: 1. Climate change The Khumbu Icefall is becoming smaller and more unstable year on year. The monsoon and winter patterns are shifting, which means its warmer for longer around the Icefall. 2. Glacial retreat Base Camp itself is moving; the glacier underneath is thinning and changing shape and there are rivers running through Base Camp now they werent there when I first started climbing Everest in 2004. 3. Overcrowding Increasingly high traffic on the mountain means more footfall, increased waste, and more of a human imprint which strains a fragile environment. Whilst waste is being managed much better these days, it is still highlighted by many as a problem.Can Everest climbers be part of the solution, rather than part of the problem?Absolutely and they must be. Im conscious that I have a bit of a platform and I want to use it for good. As climbers, we bring money into Nepal, which funds conservation projects, waste management, and local livelihoods. Teams can insist on responsible practices: waste removal, minimal camps, ethical logistics. But climbers also need to be honest about their footprint and not hide behind token offsetting. The best contribution is to reduce impact, support local communities properly, and respect the mountain as more than a trophy.What are the main changes youve seen on the mountain in the 20+ years youve been guiding on it?Its almost unrecognisable in some respects. The professionalism of Sherpa climbers has skyrocketed. The kit is far better boots, oxygen systems, tents. Communication has transformed the experience satellite comms, weather forecasting, GPS. There are many more teams, and the spectrum of quality is wide. And, of course, the effects of climate change are becoming unavoidable. Everest, however, is the same majestic peak and she still commands the same level of respect.KC preparing his kit for the forthcoming seasonHow do you see the practical aspects of climbing Everest change in the future as climate change continues changing the conditions on the mountain? Will it eventually be a rocky scramble?!No, it wont ever be a scramble Everest will always be a high-altitude, oxygen-thin, brutally cold place. But I think we will see: More unpredictable weather; harder-to-read ice conditions; a gradually deteriorating Khumbu Icefall; less stable snowpack; longer periods of bare ice. The practicalities of climbing will continue to evolve, and guides will need to adapt their strategies each season.How do you reconcile encouraging clients to take long-haul flights with your awareness of the damage it is doing? (and bearing in mind that offsetting has largely been debunked)There is no doubt that international mountaineering has a carbon cost. I dont pretend offsetting magically fixes everything. What I can do is: Encourage clients to stay longer in Nepal and contribute meaningfully to the local economy; work with operators who run environmentally responsible expeditions; personally minimise unnecessary travel outside the guiding season; support long-term community and conservation projects in the Khumbu.What is a safe number of permits to issue each season, in your opinion?Somewhere around 250-300 climbers on the South Side is manageable if the teams are competent and well-spaced throughout the season. The issue isnt the number itself its the quality and timing of those attempting the peak. Ten excellent teams cause fewer issues than two poorly run ones.Given that the Nepal authorities have talked before about not issuing permits to climbers with proper experience, do you really think this will come into force, or will money trump ethics again?Nepal is in a difficult position. Tourism is its economic heartbeat. Id love to see stricter competence requirements, but realistically, politics and financial pressures usually outweigh safety considerations. We may see incremental changes, such as the suggested requirement to have climbed a 7,000m peak before attempting Everest, but a strict enforcement regime? Ill believe it when I see it.What Chez Cool looks like before an Everest expedition!What is the standard of Nepali-run guiding companies/outfitters these days, and is it true that a cheap Everest package is cutting corners?The best Nepali operators are world-class. Truly exceptional. But the bottom of the market is a different story. A cheap Everest package absolutely means cuts, usually in: Oxygen quality and supply; guide experience; ratios; safety equipment; weather forecasting; evacuation capability. Everest is not the place to bargain hunt.Where is the line between guiding and outfitting, and how can prospective Everest climbers be sure of what they are getting? (i.e. full guiding or just logistics)This is one of the most misunderstood aspects of Everest. Outfitting = logistics: tents, food, oxygen, ropes. Guiding = decision-making, leadership, pacing, risk assessment, and personalised Sherpa support. Many companies advertise guiding but actually provide logistics only. A prospective climber must ask: Who makes the decisions on the mountain?; Who is my personal guide and how many clients do they have?; Does my guide climb with me, or just coordinate things from Base Camp?; What is included in the oxygen strategy?; What is the plan if things go wrong?. If you dont get clear answers, walk away. Everest is not the place to take unnecessary risks. As I always say, the summit is optional but getting back home is the goal.For regular updates on Kentons Everest 26 expedition, you can follow his or Trek & Mountains accounts on Instagram.More info at: www.kentoncool.comKenton is sponsored by www.lasportiva.com and www.petzl.comImages and video by @daniel_james_media