In the second and final part of this mini-series, Alun Richardson discusses the techniques and terminology you need to be familiar with when tackling higher-grade scrambling routesIn part one of The Black Art of Scrambling, we examined the fundamentals of safe scrambling, and introduced the notion that the line between harder scrambles and easier rock climbs is blurred. We discussed the techniques for easier scrambling routes and how to move together on this type of terrain; in part 2 we examine what to do when the difficulties increase and the route youre on starts to feel more like a rock climb.You will know when you have progressed to mid grade scrambles because the difficulties become more concentrated, the routes become steeper and moving together is too risky. This is a personal decision; one persons mid grade scramble is another persons rock climb. More difficult scrambles are often broken up into several sections called pitches, with a stance or belay in rock climbing parlance after each section. To tackle more difficult scrambles you will need to carry more equipment and start to use tactics and ropework more akin to rock climbing, but with some differences.There is a lot of information in this article and some of the descriptions of the techniques are minimal. If rock climbing terminology is new to you, then we would recommend you go out with some rock climbers to understand what is happening, or book an instructor to show you the ropes.What to do when the ground ahead looks too tricky to solo or to move togetherStep 1: Secure the second(s) (the person following the pitch) to the rock by tying their rope into a belay.Step 2: The leader climbs the pitch, belayed by the second (using a belay device) and placing protection to hold any fall. To reduce the forces experienced in a fall by the rope, the climber and the belay (called the fall factor), place a runner immediately after you leave the stance. Choosing the appropriate rock climbing gear for protection and placing it quickly is an art. I recommend discovering what works and what doesnt work at ground level before you venture onto a first lead. In addition to holding a fall there are a number of other reasons to place protection: to reduce the length of a fall; because there is loose rock; to help the second follow the route; and to protect the rope from sharp edges or loose rock. When traversing, the leader should also place runners to protect a potential swing by the second, or weave the rope around boulders and spikes that will snag the rope of a falling climber.Step 3: Once the leader has climbed the difficult section/pitch and reached a place where they can comfortably stand (stance), a belay is created and the second is belayed up the pitch using one of the methods below.Belays and belaying for scramblingCreating belays and belaying a second is where scrambling differs from rock climbing. The process is very much a judgement call and is why scrambling can be so serious. Try to match the seriousness of the pitch just climbed, the distance the scramblers are away from you and the quality of the anchors to decide on the type of belay and the method of belaying used. Scrambles often follow terrain that by its very nature is loose, so choosing sound rock to create a belay is a fundamental skill. Sedimentary rocks like limestone, provide plenty of protection, but have thin weathered layers and lots of cracks. The opposite is true of granite, which has fewer cracks, but provides more reliable placements. To assess a section of rock for how solid it is, first look for cracks that run around the placement. Look for soft rock and crystals inside cracks that can wedge a runner yet snap easily in a fall. Place one hand on the rock and bang it with the palm of the other. If a vibration is felt, try to kick or pull the rock, but take care that the rock does not suddenly come out and disappear over the cliff edge with you hanging on to it!Belays and belaying on non-serious pitchesBy non serious I mean that should the second fall, the ground is easy enough that they can get back onto the rock quickly and start moving again. If there is a chance the scrambler may have to be lowered back down or swing into space, the methods below are not suitable.1. A braced stance behind a boulder: Sit behind it and use a waist belay. This method is only to be used where the fall is non serious, but the scrambling is tricky and the second requires protection.2. Direct belay: Place the rope directly around a spike or boulder and use the friction created to hold a slip. The rope can be held using a waist belay. It is a very effective method, but one that relies on good judgement of the rocks security and how much friction it add (see image above).Belays when the fall is seriousIf there is a chance that the second scrambler can swing into space, then a belay must be created using climbing protection, rope or slings. The following factors should be applied when selecting anchors and creating a belay:1. Solid anchors: Two anchors are normally a minimum, but depending on the ground just climbed a single anchor is often used, because the forces are often less than in a climbing fall. Using a single anchor requires a huge judgement call to assess the impact of the second falling off.2. Equalised anchors: Forces should be directed equally to all the anchors.3. Independent anchors: Place anchors in separate sections of the cliff. Two runners in the same crack are effectively one anchor.4. Communication: Try to belay where you can communicate with the scrambler below.5. Direction of forces: It can be difficult to asses how the force created in a fall will be transmitted to the belay and belayer, but think about where the rope will be pulled if the second falls off.6. What if Finally, ask yourself what happens if the climber falls? If the answer is nothing serious will happen, then the belay is good.Using the rope to create a belay illustration by George ManleyAttaching the rope to the anchorsThere is a plethora of ways to attach the rope to the anchors; below we have a look at three of the most useful.1. Place a sling through a thread, or over a spike/ boulder and direct belay to it using an Italian Hitch or belay device in auto-locking mode. It is quick to use, simple and effective, but relies on finding a solid spike or thread. A sling on a spike should never be used to belay a lead climber either directly or indirectly because a leader fall will result in an upward pull and the sling may lift off the spike.2. Place protection, equalise them with sling(s) and direct belay using an Italian hitch or autolocking belay device. This is very versatile, but more time-consuming to create and relies on finding good cracks.3. Use the rope to create a belay this is a useful method when the anchors are further apart. Firstly pass the rope through all the anchor karabiners, grab the loop(s) of rope between the anchors and move to where you can see the scramblers below. Attach each rope to the central loop created by tying in using an HMS karabiner and a clove hitch. All the adjustments are at the harness which avoids constant walking back and forth adjusting knots. The downside of this method is that it may use a lot of rope, if the belayer is not close to the anchors. When the second scrambler arrives at the stance they can be simply clipped into the belay using a locking karabiner. If there are two scramblers, clip the rope between them into the belay. It becomes a little more difficult if the ropes have been used and you have two scramblers what you do will depend on the stance.Belaying method illustration by George ManleyBelaying a leader using a belay deviceAn attentive belayer is worth their weight in gold. A lapse in concentration can lead to painful burns or a dropped scrambler, so be vigilant. To belay effectively, attach the belay device to the rope loop created by tying into the harness. Ensure the rope runs cleanly through the belay device without any twists and use an HMS karabiner with the wide end towards the belay device to give a smoother action and improve holding power. The force the belayer receives in a fall depends on how much friction is created as the scrambler meanders up the cliff. It can vary from the belayer not realising the leader has fallen, to a considerable force slamming the inattentive belayer into the cliff. The upward movement of the belayer during a fall absorbs some of the force, but this can cause the belayer to let go of the rope, so beware. When the stance for the second is large and flat it is not always necessary to attach the second to the cliff, but be aware of large differences in the weight of the scramblers. Not attaching the scrambler means they can move out of the way of falling rocks.DescendingThe method you use depends on the size and experience of the scramblers, plus the steepness and condition of the descent. It can vary from down climbing while moving together, to abseiling. The best line for descent is the easiest line for the leader to protect the scrambler below. This may not necessarily be the same as the easiest line for the first scrambler descending. Decide whether you can hold a slip, or you need to lower the leading scramblers down the section, or even to abseil. Descending requires clear communication between the scramblers; you may want them to stop for you to sort your feet out on difficult ground, or use a boulder or spike to use as a direct belay. Make sure you maintain tension in the rope, and if the ground is difficult, put in some runners to protect the rear scrambler (see image above). Facing in when down climbing feels secure, but makes the terrain below look harder than it is. Facing out is faster, but less secure.And thats about it for this series. 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