We test out the beefed-up version of Rabs Phantom Pull-on and Phantom JacketReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersProducing the lightest possible waterproof jacket has been a challenge that a few of the premium outdoor brands have taken on in recent times, with their designers going to great lengths to jettison unnecessary features and source the lightest fabric that could still be classified as waterproof but if felt like the limit had been reached once they got down to the 100g mark.Rab were among those producing these ultra-lightweight shells, and their own Phantom Pull-On topped the scales at a barely believable 90g amazingly, it was also genuinely waterproof. That first Phantom shell was part of Rabs Skyline trailrunning collection, however this latest version in the Phantom franchise has a much broader appeal. Now in jacket form (i.e. with a full-length front zip, as opposed to half-zip), it has a few more features and uses a more durable/heavier fabric which makes it more suitable for hillwalking and backpacking.Diamond Fuse technology makes the Pertex Shield fabric more durableFabric mattersAt 222g for a mens medium, the Phantom jacket is more than twice as heavy as the original pull-on (although its still remarkably light), and thats mainly due to the far more durable fabric is uses: 30-denier Pertex Shield 2.5L Diamond Fuse. The stated waterproofness/breathability figures of 20,000mm (hydrostatic head) and 20,000 (MVTR) are more than respectable, and the unique diamond-shaped filaments used in the Diamond Fuse construction mean that durability should be good too, particularly when it comes to abrasion resistance (such as rubbing pack straps).In terms of features, the latest Phantom is not as minimalist as the original pull-on, however what features it does have are well-considered in order to minimise the weight and bulk they add to the jacket. For example, the hood doesnt have front and back adjustors as youd get on a fully-featured shell, but it does have a rear volume adjustor and also a wired peak, always useful during wet spells or on windy summits. Instead of the usual dual hem adjustors, it just has one, and instead of the usual Velcro fasteners at the cuffs, it has an elasticated section. You also get handwarmer pockets, though no chest or internal pockets. Sensible compromises at every turn then.A wired peak and rear adjustor make the hood effective in wind and rainIn useWith the likelihood that this shell will spend more time than not in your pack, its important that it is not only light but also extremely packable, and on that count the Phantom Mountain scores highly. Scrunched up it virtually fits in the palm of your hand, and has absolutely no problem being slipped into the front stash pocket on your pack. If carried inside your pack the main problem may be actually finding it in a hurry, so we actually ended up keeping it in the lid pocket of our pack. Rab have designed it so that it also neatly folds into its own hood, which is a nice touch.The feel of the Phantom is quite soft, with the micro-ripstop outer fabric giving it a distinctive texture thats quite different to many smooth waterproof jackets. In use it feels very airy as in, it hardly feels like youre wearing it. Sometimes shells that use a 2.5-layer membrane can feel a bit clammy on the inside, but we didnt find this to be the case with the Phantom in light showers anyway. However, if youre wearing a short-sleeved baselayer underneath in prolonged or heavy rain, the jacket can stick to your arms which isnt particularly pleasant.Half-elasticated cuffs can be pulled up arms for extra ventilationWe found the fit of the jacket reasonably snug, however the hem comes down nicely over the hips and we found there was enough room to wear a midlayer underneath, so its by no means too fitted. The hem can be adjusted via a single, lightweight pull-toggle, and this is a sensible compromise between weight and functionality (the other options to Rab being to have dual toggles or just an elasticated hem). Likewise, the cuffs do away with the common Velcro fastening tab and replace it with a half elasticated cuff that is extended on the outside to give some hand protection. The upside of this arrangement is that you can pull up the sleeves to your elbow if you need extra venting, and handily the cuff is wide enough that it will slip over a chunky GPS watch.Given the low weight of the Phantom, the provision of a wired peak on its hood is a bonus, and we found it was surprisingly effective keeping the rain off our face and preventing the hood flapping around too much in the wind. All these little touches help turn what could have been just another lightweight shell into a really versatile and effective layer.Not just for rain showers, the Phantom is also a useful windproof layerVerdictWhile creating the lightest is always a fun and headline-grabbing exercise, in the real world (for hillwalkers and trekkers at least) often something a bit heavier and more durable and feature-rich is a more sensible proposition. Thats obviously the thinking behind this latest Phantom shell, and its this increased feature set and durability that give it far broader appeal than the original pull-on (or even the standard Phantom Jacket). While not quite up to days of heavy rain or prolonged showers, its absolutely perfect for keeping in your pack and whipping out for sudden showers, or as a windproof layer when you hit the summit ridge.Out of interest, Rab also do matching Phantom waterproof trousers, and with these coming in at 84g and 125, you can have a full lightweight waterproof clothing system weighing just 306g and costing 285. Not bad, eh?More info at: www.rab.equipmentFit: RegularWeight: 222g (Size M)Centre back length: 75cm (Size M)Hydrostatic head: 20,000mmBreathability (MVTR): 20,000g/m/24 hrsMain fabric: 30D Pertex Shield 2.5-Layer construction with Diamond Fuse and fluorocarbon free DWR (73gsm)Find your local Rab stockist using the store locator below:https://rab.equipment/uk/stockists

We test out the beefed-up version of Rabs Phantom Pull-on and Phantom JacketReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersProducing the lightest possible waterproof jacket was a challenge that a few of the premium outdoor brands have taken on in recent times, with their designers going to great lengths to jettison unnecessary features and source the lightest fabric that could still be classified as waterproof but if felt like the limit had been reached once they got down to the 100g mark.Rab were among those producing these ultra-lightweight shells, and their own Phantom Pull-On topped the scales at a barely believable 90g amazingly, it was also genuinely waterproof. That first Phantom shell was part of Rabs Skyline trailrunning collection, however the 2026 version of the Phantom has a much broader appeal. Now in jacket form (i.e. with a full-length front zip, as opposed to half-zip), it has a few more features and uses a more durable/heavier fabric which makes it more suitable for hillwalking and backpacking.Diamond Fuse technology makes the Pertex Shield fabrix more durableFabric mattersAt 222g for a mens medium, the Phantom jacket is more than twice as heavy as the original pull-on (although its still remarkably light), and thats mainly due to the far more durable fabric is uses: 30-denier Pertex Shield 2.5L Diamond Fuse. The stated waterproofness/breathability figures of 20,000mm (hydrostatic head) and 20,000 (MVTR) are more than respectable, and the unique diamond-shaped filaments used in the Diamond Fuse construction mean that durability should be good too, with a particular xx to abrasion resistance.In terms of features, the latest Phantom is not as minimalist as the original pull-on, however what features it does have are carefully thought-through in order to minimise the weight and bulk they add to the jacket. For example, the hood doesnt have front and back adjustors as youd get on a fully-featured shell, but it does have a rear volume adjustor and also a wired peak, always useful during wet spells or on windy summits. Instead of the usual two hem adjustors, it just has one, and instead of the usual Velcro fasteners at the cuffs, it has an elasticated section. You do also get two handwarmer pockets.A wired peak and rear adjustor make the hood effective in wind and rainIn useWith the likelihood that this shell will spend more time than not in your pack, its important that it is not only light but also extremely packable, and on that count the Phantom scores highly. Scrunched up it virtually fits in the palm of your hand, and has absolutely no problem being slipped into the front stash pocket on your pack. If carried inside your pack the main problem may be actually finding it in a hurry, so we actually ended up keeping it in the lid pocket of our pack not many shells allow you to do that! Rab have designed it so that it also neatly folds into its own hood, which is a nice touch.The feel of the Phantom is quite soft, with the micro-ripstop outer fabric giving it a distinctive texture thats quote different to many, smooth waterproof jackets. In use it feels very airy as in, it hardly feels like youre wearing anything. Sometimes shells that use a 2.5-layer membrane can feel a bit clammy on the inside, though we didnt find this to be the case with the Phantom. However, if youre wearing a short-sleeved baselayer underneath in prolonged or heavy rain, the jacket does tend to stick to your arms which isnt particularly pleasant.Half-elasticated cuffs can be pulled up arms for extra ventilationWe found the fit of the jacket reasonably snug, however the hem comes down nicely over the hips and we found there was enough room to wear a midlayer underneath so by no means is it too fitted. The hem can be adjusted via a single, lightweight pull/toggle, and this is a sensible compromise between weight and functionality (the other options to Rab being to have dual toggles or just an elasticated hem). Likewise, the cuffs do away with the common Velcro fastening tab and replace it with a half elasticated cuff that is extended on the outside to give some hand protection. The upside of this arrangement is that you can pull up the sleeves to your elbow when youre running hot, and theres enough room to wear over a GPS watch.Given the low weight of the Phantom, the provision of a wired peak on its hood is a bonus, and we found it was surprisingly effective keeping the rain off our face and preventing the hood flapping around too much in the wind. All these little touches help turn what could have been just another lightweight shell into a really versatile and effective layer.Not just for rain showers, the Phantom is also a useful windproof layerVerdictWhile creating the lightest is always a fun and headline-grabbing exercise, in the real world (for hillwalkers and trekkers at least) often something a bit heavier but more durable and feature-rich is a more sensible proposition. Thats obviously the thinking behind this latest Phantom jacket, and the increased feature set and durability give it far broader appeal than the original pull-on (or even the standard Phantom Jacket). While not suitable for days of heavy rain or prolonged showers, it is absolutely perfect for keeping in your pack and whipping out in instances of light showers, or even as a windproof layer when you hit the summit ridge.Out of interest, Rab also do matching Phantom waterproof trousers, and with these coming in at 84g and 125, you can have a full lightweight waterproof clothing system weighing just 306g and costing 285. Not bad, eh?More info at: www.rab.equipmentFit: RegularWeight: 222g (Size M)Centre back length: 75cm (Size M)Hydrostatic head: 20,000mmBreathability (MVTR): 20,000g/m/24 hrsMain fabric: 30D Pertex Shield 2.5-Layer construction with Diamond Fuse and fluorocarbon free DWR (73gsm)Find your local Rab stockist using the store locator below:https://rab.equipment/uk/stockists

Why would someone climb peaks in the UKs 15 national parks, in a pair of flipflops, while carrying a 26kg post box?For Stu Skinner it was a way of tackling loneliness by inviting people to join him on the hikes and getting them to write postcards from the peak to those who might be experiencing their own form of isolation. Its a story of endurance and connection, with over 250 people joining him and more than 1000 postcards despatched. For Stu it was a way forward through depression, heartbreak and uncertainty, for those who walked with him, it was the opportunity to share what they were carrying and to discover that it is. Not necessary to be alone.Stu will be showing the film made about his journey in Ellis Brigham, Covent Garden London, on Thursday 8th October. Tickets cost 8 and proceeds will all go to Head Outside the charity that Stu founded which aims to support and recognise projects making nature and outdoor activities accessible to people facing mental health challenges.More info at: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/postcards-from-the-peaks-tickets-2001773613765?aff=oddtdtcreator&_gl=1

Jon Doran tests out a 4-season sleeping mat that wont weigh you downReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersEver thought that you couldnt have your lightweight sleeping mat and eat it? Expeds new Ultra 6.5R kind of proves the contrary. Its a mat you can use at base camp or on the hill without feeling youre losing out in either scenario.Comfort Cradle helps hold your body in place on the matNot only is it four-season warm, luxuriously thick, and wide enough to cope with the sort of sleepers who regularly roll off pared-down, gramme-shaving, mummy-shaped minimal mats, its also drum roll impressively light and compact. Its the ideal solution for anyone who wants a good nights sleep, but baulks at packing in a bulky, heavy mat. On top of that, it incorporates years of Exped sleeping mat refinements that mean it just works stuff like Expeds two-valve inflation system, the efficient and eccentrically named Schnozzel inflation sac and Comfort Cradle side chambers that help keep you on the mat not the floor of your tent.Synmat technologyExpeds Synmat technology is well established and effective, but with Synmat Plus theyve upped the R value to a four-season friendly 6.9 by adding a layer of reflective foil to radiate heat back to the body. From the outside, youd never know it was there, but the result is an impressively warm mat despite the modest pack size and weight. It just works.Also very cool is the Schnozzel inflation sac, which we reckon is probably the best mat inflating gubbins out there. Its a giant, lightweight 80g roll-top bag that acts as a high volume air pump when popped onto the in valve of the mat. It took around three quite casual minutes and five, I think, air cycles to fully inflate the mat. You could, of course, simply blow into the valve old school style, but for the sake of saving 80g, Im in Team Schnozzel every time.Once its been Schnozzeled, the result is an impressively big, thick rectangular sleeping pad that should cope with even quite wayward sleepers. I found it okay in a generously-proportioned one-person tent, but its worth being aware that it is large and could overwhelm smaller tents or take up more than its fair share of a two-person shelter. Actual dimensions are 183 x 65 x 9cm, the Mummy version is, according to the specs, the same width at the shoulders, but obviously way narrower elsewhere.Schnozzle is one of the best pump-bags weve triedThe Comfort Cradle tech, basically the side air chambers are larger to hold you unobtrusively on the mat, is a subtle but surprisingly effective touch. I didnt find myself off the mat once. And it is really comfortable. In the past Ive often used a skimpy, lightweight mat for backpacking, but something heavier and thicker for car camping. The Ultra 6.5R happily did both gigs, light and compact enough not to weigh you down, but cushy enough that you dont find yourself pining for a chunkier mat even when weight and space arent at a premium. No hip-bones pressing into the floor here.The other thing I really liked was Expeds two valve system. Theres one inlet valve, which allows for easy micro-adjustments to air-pressure when youre searching for that Goldilocks balance of cushion and comfort and a separate, unobstructed, outlet valve that means you can deflate the mat in seconds when you break camp. In the dark, a cord on the inlet valve means you cant mix them up and accidentally deflate your mat. I didnt, honest.Comfortable and warm, yet light and packable whats not to like?Mostly the mat just works brilliantly. Youre not having to choose between lightness, compactness and sleeping comfort. Its quiet and cushy in use, the recycled Bluesign-certificated polyester 20-denier ripstop fabric is soft against your delicate, wind-burned cheeks and, says Exped, three times stronger than conventional lightweight materials. If it does puncture, a colour-matched repair patch kit is supplied; weve not needed it so far, touch wood, watch out for thorns, brambles, angry hedgehogs etc.If you do prefer a mummy-shaped mat, you can opt for that version of the pad same spec and tech, lighter weight. Or, if youre in a committed outdoor relationship, theres also the 6.5R Duo, a double mattress version, that weighs in at just 825g, though it seems to be slightly thinner at 7cm rather than 9cm. Dont split up mid trip though or youll be battling for custody of the sleeping padVery reasonable pack size given its warmth ratingLast but very much not least, when the first rays of the sun strike your tent and youre itching to pack up and hit the trail, the dedicated out dump valve means deflating and rolling the mat up is quick and easy. Also the storage bag is pleasingly just large enough that theres no desperate cramming of slightly oversized mat into sack, hurrah. It just makes life easier.VerdictOverall, the Ultra 6.5R is light enough for backpacking, warm enough for winter, comfortable enough for the most pernickety of sleepers, and everything about it just works. A great, lightweight all-rounder.More info at: www.expeduk.comR-Value: 6.9Season: All seasonDimensions: MW: 183 x 65 x 9cm, LW: 197 x 65 x 9cmWeight: MW: 545 g, LW: 590 gShoulder Width: DUO M: 52 cm, DUO LW: 65 cmPump System: Schnozzel PumpbagPacked Dimensions: MW: 27 x 11.5 cm, LW: 27 x 12 cmTechnology: Synmat Plus TechnologyMaterial: Recycled 20 D ripstop polyester; TPU polyether film laminate; bluesign approved fabric; DWR freeInsulation: Recycled Texpedloft microfiber; bluesign approved fabric; reflective foilFind your local Exped stockist HERE

Jon Doran tests out a 4-season sleeping mat that wont weigh you downReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersEver thought that you couldnt have your lightweight sleeping mat and eat it? Expeds new Ultra 6.5R kind of proves the contrary. Its a mat you can use at base camp or on the hill without feeling youre losing out in either scenario.Comfort Cradle helps hold your body in place on the matNot only is it four-season warm, luxuriously thick, and wide enough to cope with the sort of sleepers who regularly roll off pared-down, gramme-shaving, mummy-shaped minimal mats, its also drum roll impressively light and compact. Its the ideal solution for anyone who wants a good nights sleep, but baulks at packing in a bulky, heavy mat. On top of that, it incorporates years of Exped sleeping mat refinements that mean it just works stuff like Expeds two-valve inflation system, the efficient and eccentrically named Schnozzel inflation sac and Comfort Cradle side chambers that help keep you on the mat not the floor of your tent.Synmat technologyExpeds Synmat technology is well established and effective, but with Synmat Plus theyve upped the R value to a four-season friendly 6.9 by adding a layer of reflective foil to radiate heat back to the body. From the outside, youd never know it was there, but the result is an impressively warm mat despite the modest pack size and weight. It just works.Also very cool is the Schnozzel inflation sac, which we reckon is probably the best mat inflating gubbins out there. Its a giant, lightweight 80g roll-top bag that acts as a high volume air pump when popped onto the in valve of the mat. It took around three quite casual minutes and five, I think, air cycles to fully inflate the mat. You could, of course, simply blow into the valve old school style, but for the sake of saving 80g, Im in Team Schnozzel every time.Once its been Schnozzeled, the result is an impressively big, thick rectangular sleeping pad that should cope with even quite wayward sleepers. I found it okay in a generously-proportioned one-person tent, but its worth being aware that it is large and could overwhelm smaller tents or take up more than its fair share of a two-person shelter. Actual dimensions are 183 x 65 x 9cm, the Mummy version is, according to the specs, the same width at the shoulders, but obviously way narrower elsewhere.Schnozzle is one of the best pump-bags weve triedThe Comfort Cradle tech, basically the side air chambers are larger to hold you unobtrusively on the mat, is a subtle but surprisingly effective touch. I didnt find myself off the mat once. And it is really comfortable. In the past Ive often used a skimpy, lightweight mat for backpacking, but something heavier and thicker for car camping. The Ultra 6.5R happily did both gigs, light and compact enough not to weigh you down, but cushy enough that you dont find yourself pining for a chunkier mat even when weight and space arent at a premium. No hip-bones pressing into the floor here.The other thing I really liked was Expeds two valve system. Theres one inlet valve, which allows for easy micro-adjustments to air-pressure when youre searching for that Goldilocks balance of cushion and comfort and a separate, unobstructed, outlet valve that means you can deflate the mat in seconds when you break camp. In the dark, a cord on the inlet valve means you cant mix them up and accidentally deflate your mat. I didnt, honest.Comfortable and warm, yet light and packable whats not to like?Mostly the mat just works brilliantly. Youre not having to choose between lightness, compactness and sleeping comfort. Its quiet and cushy in use, the recycled Bluesign-certificated polyester 20-denier ripstop fabric is soft against your delicate, wind-burned cheeks and, says Exped, three times stronger than conventional lightweight materials. If it does puncture, a colour-matched repair patch kit is supplied; weve not needed it so far, touch wood, watch out for thorns, brambles, angry hedgehogs etc.If you do prefer a mummy-shaped mat, you can opt for that version of the pad same spec and tech, lighter weight. Or, if youre in a committed outdoor relationship, theres also the 6.5R Duo, a double mattress version, that weighs in at just 825g, though it seems to be slightly thinner at 7cm rather than 9cm. Dont split up mid trip though or youll be battling for custody of the sleeping padVery reasonable pack size given its warmth ratingLast but very much not least, when the first rays of the sun strike your tent and youre itching to pack up and hit the trail, the dedicated out dump valve means deflating and rolling the mat up is quick and easy. Also the storage bag is pleasingly just large enough that theres no desperate cramming of slightly oversized mat into sack, hurrah. It just makes life easier.VerdictOverall, the Ultra 6.5R is light enough for backpacking, warm enough for winter, comfortable enough for the most pernickety of sleepers, and everything about it just works. A great, lightweight all-rounder.More info at: www.expeduk.comR-Value: 6.9Season: All seasonDimensions: MW: 183 x 65 x 9cm, LW: 197 x 65 x 9cmWeight: MW: 545 g, LW: 590 gShoulder Width: DUO M: 52 cm, DUO LW: 65 cmPump System: Schnozzel PumpbagPacked Dimensions: MW: 27 x 11.5 cm, LW: 27 x 12 cmTechnology: Synmat Plus TechnologyMaterial: Recycled 20 D ripstop polyester; TPU polyether film laminate; bluesign approved fabric; DWR freeInsulation: Recycled Texpedloft microfiber; bluesign approved fabric; reflective foilFind your local Exped stockist HERE

For a more off-the-beaten-track experience on Mont Blanc, the Italian Route via the Gonella Hut takes some beating, says IFMGA Guide Ben TibbettsMost of the Italian side of Mont Blanc is composed of wild and impressive ridges of granite and severely steep glacial terrain. However, hidden far out of sight of any road or lift access is a way called the Pope Route, or just the Italian Route, that climbs from the Glacier du Miage via the Gonella refuge to then follow the Italian/French border to the summit. It is an exceptionally beautiful route that surprisingly finds no greater technical difficulties than the easiest route on the French side. The approach hike up Val Veny and the Miage basin, though only a few hours longer than the Goter route thankfully serves to filter out all but a trickle of mountaineers so you can enjoy the mountain itself rather than the bunfight on the other side. It was first traversed in 1890, by a team including the future Pope Pius XI, as a descent after climbing the sustained Tournette Spur on the west face of Mont Blanc.For the many people hoping to climb Mont Blanc, the normal routes on the French side (the Goter and Three Monts routes) of the mountain will be the only options in mind. The route via the Goter refuge is definitely the easiest way up the mountain, with train access to 2372m and two refuges (Tte Rousse and Goter huts) to break up the challenge into more manageable chunks. During the summer season, however, it is usually very crowded and unfortunately some climbers are so desperate to reach the summit that they take no consideration for the safety and wellbeing of others. At the Goter refuge a couple of years ago, while taking a coffee on descent with clients, I even had my rope pinched by a group of Russians who were later arrested by the French PGHM (high mountain police). It is unfortunate that for many it will be their only experience of alpine mountain culture, so misrepresentative of the quiet and reflective mountaineering experience that draws us back time and again. A traverse of the mountain from Italy to France climbing via the Pope Route and then quickly down either the Goter or Three Monts route, by contrast, makes for a very fine outing.The climb (5th July 2016)We took a taxi through the tunnel from Chamonix to Val Veny and got dropped off at the end of the road beyond the Chalet del Miage. Having left the car just after 7am, it allowed us to arrive early at the refuge for a good lunch and siesta and avoid walking in the heat of the day on big snow slopes. We continued on foot to Combal where the view finally opens up across lakes and marshes. The eye is drawn beyond to the wild Lee Blanche basin and the Elisabetta Soldini hut at the far end of the valley. We followed the path round to the right and up onto the moraine of the Miage glacier. Though the glacier looks like a broad rocky jumble, the ice does continue underneath much further down the valley than it appears. The sun was rising fast in early morning sky but a cool breeze was flowing down from the massive glaciers above. Along the moraine were a troup of at least 20 ibex clattering around on the steep slopes, picking at the grass and licking natural salts off the rocks. They were particularly uninterested by our presence and only gave way to us on the narrow crest path as we came close upon them. We followed the moraine up the valley until it petered out into the mountainside. We then descended down the steep rubble onto the rock-covered glacier to pick up the faintly-marked trail on the central ridge. Some of this rock and debris on the glacier must move very steadily as a few grasses and flowers were growing in places where the dust and silt of the moraine provided purchase. The rock cover gradually diminished as we moved further up the glacier and soon we were winding our way between grey crunchy ice and more and more widely dispersed patches of rocks. One at a time we leapt across the only open crevasse that blocked our path. By now the air was warm and a large pool of green glacial melt water was almost tempting. With schoolboyish bravado handsome rewards were laid down for the first to jump in for a swim thankfully the moment passed and we carried on up the glacier. At about 2400m we finally met the snow line. Having walked fairly slowly it was around 11am and the snow was softening in the sun. We roped up in case someone found a crevasse hiding under the snow, and headed up past the chaotic foot of the Glacier du Dome. Though the hut is on the edge of this glacier we had to carry on round the corner to find where the Gonella path leaves the main Miage glacier. A short mucky scramble took us up onto the rough path, marked by a large yellow dot on rocks. We took off the rope but kept helmets on as there was plenty of potential for rocks to trundle down from above the track as the sun began to loosen things up. The path wraps back round north-east high above the glacier crossing several steep gullies that we traversed delicately on the softening snow and then a few sections of scrambling and ladders. After the final snow slope we got onto the broad buttress of rock that leads up to the refuge. At times I have found it tricky to get off the snow and across this gap to the rock but this time, with plenty of snow remaining, it passed easily. More ladders, chains and fixed ropes took us up the buttress to reach the refuge after 1pm.Lesser-travelled pathI was very surprised, given it was high season in mid July, that there were only a few tracks on the glacier and snow slopes to the hut. Though the hut is usually full on weekends, it is often quiet during weekdays and alongside the guardians family and some friends of his, we were the only ones staying in the hut. A Polish guy was squatting in the winter room below. With two other friends they had driven 17 hours from Poland only two days before, walked up to the hut with all their food and cooking equipment. They had all set off early that morning but the guy we met returned from the Piton des Italiens as he had fallen ill, unsurprising given their complete lack of acclimatisation. He then walked back down the glacier on his own, lucky to not fall into a crevasse, to arrive back at the hut about the same time as us. His friends continued on, reaching the summit late in the day and finally returned back joyful and tired 11 hours later, at midnight, after a 24-hour round trip!We had taken a more conventional approach and had done several days acclimatisation climbing above the Torino hut before coming to the Gonella. The guardian cooked us a simple but delicious pasta dish and we all headed to bed at 3pm for an afternoon siesta. A few hours later we got up for another feed: mushroom and cheese risotto followed by cheesy mashed potato, pork and apple sauce, and a chocolate mousse to finish. We packed our bags and headed to bed at 7.30pm for another short sleep. We took breakfast at 11pm just a few slices of bread and jam were our quota and the guardian seemed reluctant to give us much more, which marred the otherwise impeccable experience. By midnight we were off, traversing carefully across the steep and exposed snow beyond the refuge. It provided a sharp wake-up call and in 15 minutes we were down onto the Glacier du Dme. The night air was still warm. Thankfully, despite the air temperature hovering just above zero, the heat had radiated back out of the snow as night fell and the surface was crisp and frozen firm. We moved up the glacier as two teams of three, each lost in our pools of light. Without any moonlight it was unusually dark. There is almost no light pollution on this side of Mont Blanc and I couldnt even make out the shapes of the mountains around. If given the choice, I would travel up this route with some moonlight as it is such a spectacular and wild place to pass through.Thankfully the track on the Glacier du Dome was already well beaten in, as it would be very hard to find a way through the maze of crevassing whilst breaking a new trail on such a dark coal miners night. The glacier steepens up towards the head and the route moves left onto the ridge. Though there was almost no wind on the glacier, when we popped up onto the Col des Aiguilles Grises at 2.30am a chilly westerly breeze was already gaining momentum. I usually find the hours from 2-4am the hardest to keep focused. However as I was moving up the gradually narrowing arte roped up with John, one of our clients, I was alert to every movement of the wind, of the rope, and the yawning darkness to either side of our headlamps. From the small summit of the Piton des Italiens, the ridge becomes very narrow and exposed for a short while and I took advantage of the lack of cornice to scramble along and hold the rope from the opposite side of the ridge to the delicate tracks John was on. A lot of people who come to climb Mont Blanc are fairly goal-focused, and for John this was a stepping stone on his quest to climb Everest. It was a pleasure to be able to show him the wilder side of the mountain. We were five hours into the climb and had yet to see another climber or any other lights but those of the towns several kilometres below us in the valley floor. The ridge soon broadens and we lengthened the rope back out to pass up the ridge over a few crevasses and then round the side of the Dme du Guter to the col beyond. We reached the track of the normal (Guter) route from the French side at around 4am and were surprised to find we were ahead of everybody coming from the Guter refuge. The night sky was still largely clear except a few whispy high clouds developing. The temperatures had dropped significantly with the altitude and the wind was still building gently. We crawled into the Vallot hut to find, as usual, a bunch of hobo people bivouacing (though it is designated for emergency use only) and heaps of trash everywhere. An unpleasant wake-up call that signalled our meeting with the normal route and amongst these numbers unfortunately comes the lowest common denominator of mountain user.On to the summitAfter a break at the Vallot we clambered back out in to the frigid wind to find the pre-dawn flow of troops well advanced. The Bosses Ridge leading to the summit was in great condition with no ice showing at all. As the sun first peeked over the horizon beside Mont Maudit I rushed around trying to photograph the climbers and the landscape. I interspersed short sprints with minutes of hyperventilating in a heap. When I sat down briefly to change to a telephoto lens, I had great difficulty avoiding filling the camera with spindrift. As we climbed slowly up the snowy ridge the warm light spread across the sky, and yet very soon the sun began to be obscured by high clouds. Even having climbed up there countless times I am always slightly surprised how much hard work it requires to get up Mont Blanc, and yet also how far people can push themselves to fulfill their ambitions.Within minutes of arriving on the summit at 7am, the swirling cumulus clouds that had been building up over the Dome du Goter spilled up around us. We turned around after only a short rest and on the descent we kept moving steadily down through the mist and cloud, past many other teams and with weary heads and legs down to the Goter refuge. Our early start had been fortuitous, as most teams were turning around due to the approaching weather. We had promised ourselves a break at the Goter and a cup of coffee, but with the clouds becoming denser by the minute and static electricity building in the air we pressed on down the ridge below. However almost as quickly as they had materialised the clouds began to disperse on the lower flanks of the mountain. We scrambled down the rocky ridge and crossed the Grand Couloir just before the sun hit. I never enjoy this mortal passage and even early in the morning a few stones were whizzing down. Once crossed we were finally able to relax and stopped for a quick lunch at the Tte Rousses hut before continuing on down the mountain, glissading on patches of mushy snow most of the way to the train at Nid dAigle and thus to the valley floor.Words and images: Ben TibbetsFeeling peaky?BMC Travel insurance comes with 10 million emergency medical cover: Knock yourself out.After Alpine & Ski insurance? Weve got a great deal to keep you covered: 25% off all annual multi-trip policies in Europe, which works out at 141 for 12-months cover.Years of experienceWeve been insuring adventurers like you for over 30 years. Thats why all of our policies come with:24-hour emergency assistance helpline10 million emergency medical cover100,000 search, rescue and recovery cover10,000 personal accident cover5,000 cancellation cover2,500 baggage coverNo age loading until youre 70WATCH: BMC Insurance: built for the mountainsWant to know more? READ:5 reasons why you need BMC Travel Insurance*Policy details:141.80 for annual European Alpine and Ski cover up to age 69. For policies purchased between 14 May and 31 August 2018.

Jon Doran enlists his partner to help review Rabs latest daysack for womenReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersRab might not be a traditional pack brand, but the Sheffield-based down and clothing outfit has drawn heavily on the expertise of its pack-specialist Lowe Alpine stablemates to create an ever-expanding range of backpacks including the impressive new Airox ND22L day pack, a hot-weather friendly, lightweight womens pack with a difference.The ND designation it stands for Narrow Dimension is actually Lowe Alpines longstanding womens-specific pack marker. It means that the packs are narrower and shorter, mainly to suit the female anatomy, but also to cater for anyone of a slighter build. Its all based on genuine research and design rather than a performative shrink and pink process too. Theres lots more to the Airox than that, but our tester appreciated the neat, female-friendly fit. On a hot, heatwave weekend, the pack was just the right size for everything needed for a day in the hills, up to and including a lightweight shell jacket just in case.The ND designation means you get a pack thats slightly narrower and shorterPockets galoreThere are multiple water-carrying options: on the Airox an internal sleeve and central outlet for a hydration reservoir; two mesh side pockets that can take a water bottle each and a feature borrowed from running vest and adventure race packs a wide shoulder-strap pocket designed specifically to hold a soft flask within easy reach. Theres also a mesh phone, bar or gel pocket on the other shoulder, two cavernous hipbelt zipped pockets, a big bucket stash pocket on the front of the pack and a zipped top pocket too. And then, of course, the main compartment with zipped access.Even this is a little bit different. A deep zip means you can pretty much open up the entire back panel like a big trekking pack, for easy access to deeply buried treasure. All of which is fantastic and optimal for organised kit loading. Fun fact: a Lowe Alpine research project back in the day, found that women appreciated having multiple pockets far more than men, who in turn would happily carry their kit in a pack modelled closely on a large bin liner!A running vest-style soft flask pocket on the shoulder strap is welcomeIn the hills, those pockets were brilliant. It turned out to be very straightforward to access snacks, wallet, phone, a sun hat, a 5m dog long line, sun cream, a 1L water bottle, an actual paper map, a lightweight windshell, some very fetching sunglasses, two apples, a banana and the sort of bunch of keys traditionally carried by prison warders, without ever having to open the main compartment. Mind blown.There is one potential downside to the runners vest-style pocketed shoulder straps though theyre quite wide and have noticeable edging, which our tester found slightly uncomfortable for her narrow shoulders. Theres also the thorny and personal issue of the boob/strap interface. Our advice is to consider trying before buying to be on the safe side.Back systemIf two of the packs design influences are running and trekking, the back system is squarely cadged from the sort of ventilated, trampolene-type back systems Lowe Alpine has been producing and perfecting for years. Theres nothing massively radical about the AEROFIT back think maximum mesh area, a perimeter frame and board to keep the air gap, erm, gapped and shoulder straps and hipbelt lined with comfortable, but lightweight, perforated breathable mesh.The ventilated back system is married to a running vest-style harnessThe good news though, is that it works very, very well indeed, both in terms of giving a really comfortable, evenly spread carry. And, to our testers delight, keeping her back enviably dry on the sort of summers day when most packs leave your back a sodden, soggy mess (dont ask how I know etc). You can equally well use it in cooler weather conditions too, but its one of the most effective hot weather harnesses weve used, which given the state of the UK climate, is probably just as well.While were talking weather, the pack also comes with a neat-fitting, waterproof, zip-out rain-cover housed in a handy base pocket and very effective at prolonging dry spells, at least during our testing. Other stuff? Weight is impressively light at 850g, particularly considering all the bells and whistles that come as standard and build quality feels excellent with tough 140D and 212D ripstop nylon fabrics and industry standard buckles and zips.Hipbelt pockets are large enough to hold multiple snacksIf youre a trekking pole user, youll be glad to hear theres a small but perfectly-formed bungee-based pole-holding system. And if the stripped-back 22-litre capacity isnt quite enough for you, there are also narrow dimension ND28 and ND34 versions of the Airox with more conventional lidded access to the main compartments, but with the same back system and running-type shoulder pocket arrangements. Also in the range, so men dont feel too left out, are standard dimension Airox 18L and 24L packs, the latter basically a mens version of this pack, as well as larger 30L and 36L models.VerdictAll in all the Airox ND22L is a really neat, well-designed and impressively effective hot-weather pack designed with the female form in mind. The multiple pockets and stowage options make it easy to organise and access your kit for a day out on the hills. It carries really nicely, as well or better than many non-ventilated packs and overall, is a great advert for Rabs burgeoning pack range, which is well worth considering if youre in the market for anything from an all-round day pack right up to a full-on 80L trekking load-hauler. The good news is that womens options are offered right through the range apart from climbing and mountaineering packs which are designated unisex.The Rab Womens Airox ND22L retails for 120 and should keep your back dry and comfortable for years to come.More info at: www.rab.equipmentWeight: 850g / 1lb13.9oz (Size S-M)Main fabric: 140D nylon (69% recycled) with yarn dyed nylon 210D rip stopSecondary fabric: 420D NylonFabric lining: Embossed 200d Polyester (100% recycled)Volume: 22 / 1343cu.inDimensions: 50 x 28 x 25cmBack system: AEROFITBack length: 16-18 / 41-46cmFind your local Rab stockist using the store locator below:https://rab.equipment/uk/stockists

ReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersNew for 2026, the Vango Arctix 400 sleeping bag has been designed as pretty much the only sleeping bag that a lot of people will need think top-end spec, but at a really competitive price. That means you get water-resistant, high-loft goose down, advanced heat-reflecting technology, lightweight fabrics and refined design. Oh, and a built-in pillow sleeve too. Its comfort rated down to -4C, so good for all-round UK use outside of full-on winter conditions.Just as importantly, when you liberate the 890g bag from its neat compression sac, the high-loft, 750-fillpower goose down stretches out its feathery tendrils and expands to fill every corner of its horizontally-stitched down compartments. Its not quite as effective as the very, very best down, but its not far off. Not only that, but the fill has been treated with Vangos Hydro Barrier coating which, they say, means it stays drier 4x longer than untreated down. I cant vouch for that exact statistic, but it shrugged off a minor tea spill and the hydrophobic treatment should keep the bag drier for longer. I found it particularly reassuring when paired with a bivi bag in typical UK conditions, where stray H2O is a bit of a given. Vango says the bag should be comfortably snug down to around -4C, but industry standard lab tests show that itll just about keep you alive down to a not-very-British -21C. That felt about right to me based on comparable bags Ive used.The Arctix 400 has several tricks up its sleeve to improve warmth/weight performanceTechnologyVango hasnt just stopped at the basics, though a lot of technology has gone into this bag which is why its standard industry temperature ratings are right up there with swankier rivals. Not only is the ethically-sourced RDS down water resistant, but the bag also uses something called Advanced Reflective Coating technology (or ARC) to improve performance. From the outside, you wouldnt know it was there, the fabric feels totally normal to the touch, but it hides an ultra-thin, flexible, aluminium thermal fabric coating that reflects heat back towards your body to increase the effective warmth of the sleeping bag. It doesnt change the feel of the bag, theres no crisp-packety crackling, and it also doesnt impair the breathability of the fabric, so no unnecessary sweatiness.In honesty, if Vango didnt tell you it was there, youd never know, but when temperatures drop, every little bit of thermal efficiency is welcome. Its supposedly worth around 2to 4C if you were to compare test results to the same bag without ARC technology.The Arctix 400 fares well in the 1L Nalgene bottle size testThe down and the reflective tech are what give the bag its raw insulation power, but Vango hasnt stopped there. The use of lightweight 10-denier ripstop nylon shell fabric helps keep weight and bulk down, but without feeling either crinkly or fragile. And box-wall down compartments mean that there are no thin seam areas where heat can easily leak out, something thats not the case with more basic stitch-through construction used for many cheaper bags.The bag is a classic, tapered mummy design yes, as in Tutankhamun which minimises cold air-spaces compared to a rectangular bag and, again, helps to reduce weight and bulk. One big plus with Vangos design though, is that its not quite as close fitting as some mummy bags, which gives a bit more wriggle and roll room and added comfort, particularly for side sleepers. Incidentally, it will cope with heights of up to 62 according to the specs.Youre not short-changed on micro-design either. The bag has a carefully-contoured Arrow Foot, which is claimed to allow natural foot positioning; I never even noticed it, so I guess it works. And at the other end, theres a 3D hood with adjuster cord. This works really well, plenty of fill around the noggin even when cinched down, and I never got a cold head using the bag.The bags hood features a sleeve which you can fill with clothes to make a pillowAt the other end of the temperature scale, the 3/4-length zipper is double-ended so you can vent from the bottom upwards when temperatures rise. Vango says 15C is as warm as they suggest using it, but I found it a little too warm much above 10C, but it all depends on how cool a sleeper you are. That zip moves nice and smoothly and is backed up with a down-filled, 3D baffle to eliminate chilly draughts and keep heat in.A couple of neat features, theres a small inside, Velco-fastened pocket to hold a phone or wallet and the inside of the hood sports an Integrated Pillow Sleeve, which you can fill with clothes to create a pillow. Its a great idea, but the actual sleeve is around the size of an A5 envelope, so a bit limited. Id love to try a larger take on the idea though, maybe next year.One last big thumbs up for the three-strap compression bag, which somehow manages to dodge being the messy, spaghetti-like mass of tangled straps that you often find and packs the bag down nice and small. Its a shame its not waterproof, but its easy enough to combine with a dry-bag or pack-liner.VerdictOverall, I was really impressed with just how well the Arctix 400 works. It stuffs down small, lofts out large and packs a deceptive technological punch with its water-resistant down and reflective fabric coating. It doesnt fall behind on design features either, with well-shaped foot and hood and evenly-filled down compartments for even thermal heft. If I was being ultra-critical, Id say that it doesnt have quite the polish of some of its high-end rivals, but in terms of pure performance, its great value for money and while it may be nice to have a softer fabric or a swankier-spec zip-pull, thats not what keeps you warm and snug at night. All in all, just a really good sleeping bag at a highly competitive price.More info: www.vango.co.ukRating: 3 SeasonWeight: 0.89kgShape: MummySuggested usage (min): -4CSuggested usage (max): 15CInt length: 205cmInt chest width: 75cmInt foot width: 48cmExt chest width: 80cmMax user height: 190cmFill type: 90/10 700FP Goose DownComfort: 1CLimit: -4CExtreme: -21CPacked dimensions: L20.0 x H16.0 x W16.0cm53 Degrees North (Ireland)Cotswold OutdoorsTisoAttwoollsNevisportNorwich Camping & LeisureOutback Jacks (Ireland)Outdoor ActionOutdoor WorldRivendell OutdoorTaunton LeisureUltralight Outdoor Gear

ReviewSpecsGalleryRetailersThe Ultra Raptor has been a perennial favourite in the La Sportiva range for well over a decade, and while it may have started life as a burly long-distance running shoe its adoption by fast hikers and backpackers has clearly influenced its more recent development in fact, this latest version is now officially designated by La Sportiva as a hiking shoe.The reason hikers gravitated to the previous incarnations of the Ultra Raptor (and the original Raptor which was launched back in 2010) was that they offered good support and protection as well as the low weight and comfort that long-distance trail runners also coveted it for. In their blurb, La Sportiva say that this third version is redesigned but has the same identity and that as well as offering enhanced protection and stability, the new shoe has a new fit and offers greater comfort. This all sounds very promising so lets take a look!A new ripstop upper makes the latest Ultra Raptor the toughest yetWhats new?Offered with and without a Gore-Tex waterproof liner in its shoe form, and with Gore-Tex in mid boot form, the Ultra Raptor 3 comes in a wide range of sizes and colours for men and women. Although it retains the overall look of the Ultra Raptor 2, there are some major differences between the two. The air-mesh upper of the Ultra Raptor 2 has been replaced by a tear-resistant ripstop fabric, which is still light and breathable but looks like itll take more punishment than the previous material. The chunky rubber toe bumper and all-round rand also support the notion that the durability/protection of this third incarnation has been uprated.The other major difference is that the Ultra Raptors sole unit has been completely redesigned, and while it still uses La Sportivas own Frixion White rubber compound, thats about the only similarity with its predecessor. The whole sole unit is generally more substantial, with heel/forefoot stack heights of 35mm/27mm compared to 27mm/16mm on the outgoing model, providing more cushioning in the midsole whichll come into its own on long days on the trail.Tread pattern works well on a range of surfacesThe outsole itself has a reworked tread pattern that uses slightly shorter (4.5mm compared to 6mm on the II), but blockier lugs than the more rounded lugs on the II. Crucially, the new outsole incorporates the Impact Brake System thats featured on many recent La Sportiva models; this firstly absorbs shock by the lugs slightly deforming when they hit the ground, and they also help with uphill traction and downhill braking due to the angled and opposing arrangement of the lugs.Finally, worth a mention is the integrated, knitted ankle gaiter which is intended to help keep out stones and other debris, and also incorporates a large pull-loop to assist getting the shoes on and off.In useComfort has always been a big selling point of the Ultra Raptor, and we found that the 3 takes this to new levels, not just when you first put them on, but also after several hours use. Its not the false comfort either, that you sometimes get when a shoe is highly padded and feels great initially, but not so good after hours of use. The Ultra Raptor feels both comfortable and stable/precise, with a firm heel hold helped by the TPU cradle that sits at the back of the shoe.Ultra Raptor 3 remains comfy even after hours on the trailThe balance between weight and protection is also good; they feel very light on the foot, but the combination of a sole unit thick enough to absorb any sharp rocks underfoot, with the all-round rand and toe bumper gives you reassurance that your feet are in safe hands. Although the ripstop upper fabric is quite thin, the upper has a series of thicker overlays that protect the foot and will also help durability.We found that the combination of the sticky rubber and carefully-devised tread pattern meant the Ultra Raptor 3 was effective on a wide range of surfaces, whether it be gravel trails, wet grass, mud or rock. In fact, it makes a very good approach shoe, and one that climbers will be very happy to slip their aching feet back into after a few hours climbing. Easier scrambles are well within the capabilities of the Ultra Raptor 3, especially where the shoes sticky rubber can be used for smearing; however, they are too soft sole to give you much of a platform on small foot holds.Knitted ankle collar keeps out stones and other debrisVerdictWith this latest version, the Ultra Raptor completes its journey from a sturdy running shoe to an out-and-out hiking/approach shoe and the result is hugely impressive. Comfort levels are high, with a roomy footbox and increased padding in the midsole theyre so comfortable in fact, that you might end up living in these things. The Ultra Raptor 3 seems to get the balance right in so many ways theyre light and comfortable, but offer good protection; theyre well padded but nimble and supportive and with the revised sole unit they are a true all-rounder, effective on a range of surfaces and with the benefits of the Impact Brake System. If youre in the market for some lightweight hiking/approach shoes, then the Ultra Raptor 3s should definitely be high on your list.More info at: www.lasportiva.comGaiter: Integrated collar gaiter keeps out stones, gravel and other debrisUpper: Durable mesh upper wicks away sweat during intense hikes Rubber toe cap and rand protect against rocks and rootsMidsole: Soft, supportive midsole ensures all-day comfort out on the trail Compact EVA foam at the heel maximises support and stabilitySole: FriXion White compound outsole delivers oustanding grip on inclines Impact Brake System technology absorbs shock and provides increased traction Flex grooves along the sole allow for full freedom of movementInsole: Ortholite Hybrid Mountain Hiking 5mmPatent: Impact Brake SystemWaterproof membrane: No (but available in the Ultra Raptor 3 GTX and Ultra Raptor 3 Mid GTX)Stack Height: Heel 35mm; Forefoot 27Drop: 8mmWeight: Approx 350g per shoe (depending on size)Lug Height: 4.5Wide Fit: NoEllis BrighamClimbers ShopUltralight Outdoor GearOutsideTiso

So you want to climb the Matterhorn? IFMGA Mountain Guide James Thacker explains exactly what you can expect when climbing the route of the first ascent, the Hrnli RidgeWhether you are a young alpine tiger or are starting your mountaineering career in your 40s, the Matterhorn is almost sure to be on your ticklist. To climb this famous summit remains a significant challenge and is still one of the European Alps most sought-after ascents. It is a true mountaineers summit, and any ascent will require experience, training and practice, with its technical difficulty alone making it stand head and shoulders above Mont Blanc. The Matterhorn, Monte Cervino (in Italian) or Mont Cervin (in French) lies between the town of Zermatt in Switzerland and Breuil-Cervinia in the Italian Aosta Valley to the south. At 4,478m the summit is high in fact, one of the highest summits in the Alps with no truly easy route to the top. The Matterhorn represents much more than its surveyed height however, forming an iconic symbol of Switzerland and the Valais region in particular. The constituent faces and ridges are steeped in history, triumph and tragedy as well as loose rock. Hornli Ridge: the route of the first ascent by Edward Whymper in 1865 Hrnligrat To climb the Matterhorn by the easiest ridge the Hrnli Ridge (or Hrnligrat) one needs the ability to cope with roped scrambling for a long period of time. As a Guide, I personally think of the Matterhorn as a unique challenge, the overall itinerary being a much greater undertaking than its constituent parts. The overall commitment of the route is clear when you consider that you need to ascend and descend a vertical interval of 1,220m from the Hrnlihutte in a timely and expedient fashion. The most common method of ascent starts in the town of Zermatt, from which you take the cable car to Schwarzsee before walking to the Hrnlihutte at 3,260m (recently renovated in 2014 and opening this summer). Starting at about 4am, most of the lower section is climbed in darkness before reaching the summit early, then descending before the build up of afternoon cloud.Athletic rock climbing ability is not really required instead, sure-footedness, good balance and the ability to deal with the heady exposure of such a significant summit are more useful for a successful ascent. Small pitches, or rope lengths of climbing, are involved throughout the routes length, while slick moving together on the rope with you partner (or Guide) is imperative to ensure a timely ascent, since the summit is also very exposed to any deterioration in the weather.The route is graded Assez Difficile (AD) and a quick glance at the Alpine Club Guidebook (details at bottom of page) will tell you that the route includes sections of UIAA III climbing which is around British Difficult or Very Difficult standard. By modern standards such grades are relatively easy, but when you consider the length of the difficulties and the fact that you will be climbing in mountaineering boots rather than precision rock shoes, the challenge starts to look considerable. On top of that you need to contend with a pre-dawn start, intricate route finding in the dark and, in descent, sustained scrambling, loose rock, snow, ice, fixed ropes not to mention down climbing and abseiling so a wide range of skills are a prerequisite for any prospective Hrnli Ridge climber.A mountain of such scale inevitably comes with some objective hazards too, and its wise to anticipate these before embarking on an ascent. The good news is that as a predominately rock ascent with just the final section on snow and ice this is one place where you dont need to worry about seracs and crevasses. However, rockfall can be a considerable problem if you stray from the best possible line, or other parties do so above you.An early start means some intricate route-finding has to be negotiated in the darkRoute-finding is really important to ensure that you stay on well-travelled rock. A moments inattention can see you in a dead end, so its important to stay sharp and take a bush tracking-type approach, keeping an eye out for footprints, worn rock and crampon scratches. This is especially important on the lower section of the mountain where the route actually takes the flanks, rather than being on or close to the ridge crest. Any slight errors or a momentary lapse in concentration here will lead onto the loose stuff, and as one of my colleagues once so eloquently described it the Matterhorn is just steep enough to stack choss.The scale of the Hrnligrat also brings the challenge of speed and efficiency. Such an exposed summit, isolated as it is on the Swiss-Italian frontier attracts bad weather quickly. Even in relatively stable conditions the summit can be shrouded in cloud as moist air rises from the Italian plains up the Aosta Valley. The sustained terrain on the Matterhorn may feel comfortable enough in dry conditions but being caught in a storm high on the mountain is not one to savour. Wet rock, verglass or snow will augment the difficulty considerably, especially in descent. Sadly, the Matterhorn is also one of the most dangerous summits in the Alps with a rumoured 500+ deaths since its first ascent.Experienced required The obvious question for anyone considering climbing the Hrnli Ridge is: what experience do you need to make an ascent? The answer is perhaps obvious; most mountaineers will need to prepare well in advance and do some long-term planning in preparation for an ascent. Sadly, 1,220m on a step machine in the gym is simply not going to cut it, and time in the mountains will be well spent. There are very real barriers to achieving those big days in the mountains, but a good way of maximising time is to concentrate on scrambling terrain with increasing vertical intervals. Snowdonia, the Highlands and North West Highlands, and the Isle of Skye all offer fantastic scrambling terrain on which to practise. This all helps overall fitness but also contributes to developing balance, agility and co-ordination on scrambling terrain and that feeling of being good on your feet. This, combined with some training ascents of other 4,000m peaks and nights spent sleeping at around 3,000m will be essential for acclimatisation. Sadly, no shortcuts exist and this isnt a challenge which can be achieved by following a closely-defined checklist, but thats the ultimate attraction the Matterhorn is definitely no quick tick.At 4,477m the Matterhorn is well over the magical 4000m mark and, combined with such a rapid ascent and descent on rock, people often suffer from altitude illness as they work hard on the ascent, in contrast to the slow plod of Mont Blanc. Preparation is key and it may be that you need to take longer than a week for successful acclimatisation.The peak season for climbing the Matterhorn is generally from mid July to late August. Normally the Hrnligrat needs to be largely clear of snow on the lower section and ideally up to The Shoulder, close to where the upper fixed ropes begin. The Matterhorn Webcam is a useful tool if planning a visit; the mountain should really appear pretty much clear of snow when viewed from Zermatt to be considered in optimum condition. Inevitably, this period also coincides with the high season in the Alps when the mountains are at their busiest, the conditions are often dry and the risk of rockfall is ever- present.An unusually cheery queue at the bottom of the Lower Moseley SlabChoosing a Guide For many people the logical way of climbing the Matterhorn is with an IFMGA Mountain Guide. On a recent ascent, I was riding the lift up to Schwarzsee and a confident and articulate British tourist described how you simply didnt need a Guide for the Matterhorn; it was, of course, far too easy. When pushed it became apparent that he had never set foot on the mountain, let alone possessed an understanding of the enormity of the task. So if the question do I need a Guide for the Matterhorn? pops into your head, the answer is almost certainly yes.In employing the services of a Guide you have a much better chance of success and completing the enterprise in a safe and timely manner. There is a good chance that it will also be much more enjoyable as well. If, instead, you are considering an ascent of the Matterhorn independently, then many of the other Valais peaks offer excellent routes on which to cut your teeth. Although nothing really compares to the Hrnligrat, traverses such as the South Ridge of the Laggingorn make ideal targets to practise movement on AD ground over a reasonable horizontal and vertical distance.Many British Mountain Guides offer ascents on a private or course basis. The reality is that there is not much difference between the two, since the Matterhorn is guided at a 1:1 ratio. This local custom makes perfect sense for an ascent of such sustained commitment and technical difficulty, and has evolved to protect everybody on the mountain. In most cases an ascent would be made at the end of a six-day period, allowing acclimatisation time and some practice or warm-up ascents prior to a summit bid. Even for experienced alpinists with a good tick list behind them, it is important for both climbers (with a Guide or not) to be moving well together and have considerable trust in each others abilities. Moving together on a short rope often without protection between, is one of the true techniques of alpinism, demonstrating solidarity in the climbing partnership, mutual trust to move carefully and sure-footedly in pursuit of the summit.Romanticisms aside, the techniques employed to climb the Matterhorn havent greatly changed since the first ascent in 1865, and Edward Whympers advice in his book Scrambles Amongst the Alps is as true now as it was then: Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.My slightly bias advice for many people would be to hire a Guide, thus increasing your chances of success and ensuring you make the most of your previous training on any attempt. It is of course possible to hire a Swiss Guide purely for a summit attempt in Zermatt, but the approach is slightly different with the vast majority of hopefuls having a rather clinical test on a nearby summit. A different approach maybe, but with up to 150 attempting the Hrnligrat per day at the height of the season, the Swiss Guides Centre currently views this as essential.Climbers switching to crampons at the site of the ruined Solvay Hut in snowy conditionsChoosing kit Having decided that the Matterhorn is firmly on your tick list its worth considering what equipment to take. This is one occasion where light is right or, more correctly, light is right because you are going to be carrying it up and down 1,200m. Due to the huge vertical difference you need clothing to cope with a broad range of temperatures; most likely +30 degrees on the approach to the hut, followed by a pre-dawn start with temperatures just above freezing. This quickly gives way to warmer temperatures in the afternoon as you descend into the heat of the day. In most cases, a light pair of softshell trousers, thin thermal and softshell top will be the mainstay of any clothing system.This can then be bumped up high on the mountain with a thin insulating layer. In addition, some lightweight waterproof trousers and a jacket will be useful in the bottom of your sac for an afternoon shower or windy conditions. I favour quite a light but stiff boot for the this sort of climbing, the stiffness allowing the effective use of small footholds as well as fitting a crampon. This is one area where I would always consider investing in a new pair of boots before other items; you will feel a heavy traditional mountaineering boot when you have been on a giant rock-based step machine for 1,200m!James Thacker and his client Tony Clapham on the summit in 2013As I leave the hut I will already be wearing my harness and helmet as the route starts immediately with some fixed ropes. There are some small abseils or lowers on the way down so I prefer a harness with a little padding, shunning super-lightweight models. My rucksack should be small and light but with space for crampons, axe and additional layers as well as food and water. For the vast majority of the route, one person will probably have the rope in alpine coils around their body, as only a short distance is needed in ascent. To save a bit of weight I usually take a 40m rope, which is a good compromise between the added burden and usable length for abseils and lowers on key sections.Finally, embrace the controlled chaos of one of the busiest summits in the Alps and enjoy a unique ascent from the Golden Era. Oh, and dont forget that its not always good to join the back of the queueTHE KNOWLEDGE: HORNLI RIDGEWHEN TO GO: July and August are the only months sensible to try this route, as snow will still be lying before this. For weather conditions, check the webcam at www.zermatt.ch/en/Webcams/Berge-1/Untere-Riffelalp-2-111-m and weather forecast at www.zermatt.chHOW TO GET THERE: Fly to Zurich, and then either catch a train or drive to Zermatt or Breuil-Cervinia where you will be based.HOW HARD: The Hrnli Ridge is graded AD, and you will ascend 1,220m from the Hrnlihutte. The guidebook time is 4-5 hours in ascent and 5-6 in descent. Although not too hard technically, excellent fitness is required as it is a very long day, plus a head for heights is helpful as the exposure in places is quite breathtaking. Plenty of previous alpine experience is recommended!WHERE TO STAY: In the valley, stay in either Zermatt or Breuil-Cervinia. Walk up the night before to the Hrnlihutte this is very busy though, so book well in advance. Hut Booking: Hrnlihutte www.hoernlihuette.ch/reservation_46.html, price is 150CHF per person with a discount for Alpine Club, CAF, SAC members.WHAT TO TAKE: Waterproof jacket and pants, softshell pants, 25L backpack, belay jacket, lightweight mountaineering boots, 12-point crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, 40m ropeWHO TO GO WITH: Unless you are a very experienced mountaineer, prospective Matterhorn climbers are advised to book an IFMGA Mountain Guide for their Hrnli Ridge climb. The author regularly guides on this route, see his website at www.jamesthacker-mountaineering.co.uk. Alternatively you can find other British Mountain Guides at www.bmg.org.ukJames Thacker is a British Mountain Guide working in the Alps, Scotland, the Peak District and beyond. Visit his website for a full list of the services he offers: www.mountainassurance.co.ukFeeling peaky?BMC Travel insurance comes with 10 million emergency medical cover: Knock yourself out.After Alpine & Ski insurance? Weve got a great deal to keep you covered: 25% off all annual multi-trip policies in Europe, which works out at 141 for 12-months cover.Years of experienceWeve been insuring adventurers like you for over 30 years. Thats why all of our policies come with:24-hour emergency assistance helpline10 million emergency medical cover100,000 search, rescue and recovery cover10,000 personal accident cover5,000 cancellation cover2,500 baggage coverNo age loading until youre 70WATCH: BMC Insurance: built for the mountainsWant to know more? 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